Opinion: Why the Vacheron Constantin 222 in stainless steel is a timeless revival of a classic watch
The launch of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in stainless steel on January 13 this year marks a pivotal moment for the Swiss watchmaker as it kickstarts the celebration of its 270th anniversary. This release not only honours the legacy of the original iconic 222 reference, introduced first in 1977 to commemorate the maison’s 222nd anniversary, but also reflects a contemporary evolution that meets the demands of today’s luxury watch aficionados.
The initial reissue of the Historiques 222 in yellow gold in 2022 exceeded expectations and sparked significant interest among collectors. However, many enthusiasts expressed a desire for a stainless steel variant to complement their collections. By launching this model now, Vacheron Constantin aims to satisfy this demand while maintaining controlled production levels to preserve exclusivity—a balance that is crucial in today’s market where scarcity often drives desirability.
Here, we discuss why this reissue of a classic in stainless steel is not just an important reference for the maison, but also for the luxury watch industry on the whole.
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From Vacheron Constantin’s archives (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
The original Vacheron Constantin 222 was designed by Jorg Hysek, a young designer who was just 24 at the time. It emerged during a golden era for integrated bracelet watches, following the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. While those models quickly became household names, the 222’s production was limited—approximately 500 pieces in steel and around 150 in gold—making it a hidden gem among collectors.
Its design featured a distinctive tonneau-shaped case, a notched bezel, and an integrated bracelet with hexagonal links, elements that are preserved in this modern iteration. The new Historiques 222 retains its predecessor’s dimensions of 37mm in diameter and 7.95mm in thickness. However, it incorporates modern materials and construction techniques. The case is crafted from stainless steel, providing durability while maintaining elegance and making the watch more accessible to a wider audience. The integrated bracelet has been redesigned for enhanced ergonomics, featuring concealed pins and a triple-blade clasp for improved comfort compared to the original watch’s twin-blade design.
Vacheron Constantin 222 yellow gold released in 2022 (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
One of the most striking updates is the transition to a matte blue dial, which connects to earlier steel versions from the late 1970s. This shade is slightly brighter than its predecessors. The hour markers and hands are made from white gold and coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring legibility in both day and night. A notable design improvement is the repositioning of the date window slightly away from the minute track, preventing it from overlapping it—a thoughtful detail that enhances overall symmetry and readability.
At the heart of this timepiece lies Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre 2455/2 movement. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Unlike its predecessor, which utilised Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin calibre 1121, this modern movement is slightly thicker at 3.6mm but allows for superior precision and reliability. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, showcasing exquisite finishing that conforms to Geneva Hallmark standards. While water resistance has been reduced to 50 metres from the original model’s 120 metres, this change reflects the needs of today’s watch lovers, where extreme water resistance is not a priority.
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An advertisement of the heritage 222 model from Vacheron Constantin’s archives (Photo: courtesy of Vacheron Constantin)
Economically speaking, it’s common knowledge that the luxury watch industry has faced fluctuations in consumer confidence due to economic uncertainties and changing spending habits post-pandemic. However, there remains a strong interest in unique and historically significant timepieces. The auction market has shown robust performance, indicating that collectors are willing to invest in high-value watches that tell a story or hold historical significance. The Historiques 222 fits this trend perfectly, as it is not just a watch but a piece of horological history that appeals to both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts alike.
The timing of this release is particularly significant as it caters to increasing demand for integrated bracelet sports watches while celebrating Vacheron Constantin’s rich 270-year-old history. Another important point to note is that younger generations are increasingly being drawn to watches that evoke nostalgia while incorporating modern technology and aesthetics.
As collectors eagerly anticipate this release, it’s clear that the Historiques 222 will not only appeal to long-time fans but also attract new enthusiasts looking for neo-vintage luxury timepieces, making it an important reference which introduces a new generation to an old-school favourite.
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