Watches and Wonders 2025: Tatler GMT editors pick their favourite watches
Rolex unveiled its most significant new release in over a decade. Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Panerai wowed with their ultra-complicated timepieces. Tag Heuer kicked into high gear with Formula 1. And Cartier continued to charm with its imaginative play on shapes. But do any of them make it to our favourite lists this year?
Read more: Watches and Wonders 2025: A conversation with CEO Matthieu Humair
After a busy week of horological discovery, Tatler GMT editors from Malaysia, Singapore, and Hong Kong were finally able to take a moment to reflect—and pick what they think were the best watches at Watches and Wonders 2025.
ROLEX 1908
From IWC’s Ingenieur to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso, gold bracelets are hitting their stride this year. But the best of the lot belongs to a Rolex Perpetual watch—the 1908. Introduced in 2023, the 39mm case with its classical dial, hands, and Arabic numerals, is Rolex’s take on a refined and understated dress watch. That notion has been elevated with an 18-karat yellow gold version—paired with a matching bracelet created specially for the model.
Named Settimo, the bracelet comprises rows of seven small links, each slightly contoured and polished on every side. The new bracelet feels great on the wrist—incredibly lightweight and luxurious. In the short evolution of the 1908, this reference is its most sumptuous yet, complete with a hidden Crownclasp and a patent-pending system that seamlessly connects it to the case middle. — Brian Cheong, regional managing editor, Tatler GMT
See also: Watches and Wonders 2025: 3 highlights from Rolex apart from the Land-Dweller
Oyster Perpetual 1908 in yellow gold with new Settimo bracelet
A LANGE & SÖHNE 1815
In some cases, size does matter. And the A Lange & Söhne 1815 in a compact 34mm, available in pink or white gold, wears beautifully on a small wrist like mine. As you can probably guess, I have a preference for classic-style watches, and the three-hand 1815 is timelessly elegant. Now in its smallest size yet, with a height of only 6.4mm, the proportions hit the current trend of small watches—and is even more desirable than ever. The manual-winding manufacture calibre L152.1 was developed for the new discreet case but boasts an even better power reserve at 72 hours than its larger predecessor.— Brian Cheong
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 in 34mm white gold
H MOSER & CIE POP COLLECTION
H Moser & Cie has established an uncanny knack for designing classic timepieces with a subversive twist. The Endeavour Pop Collection is the perfect example. Playful yet restrained, it balances vibrant natural stones with an understated elegance. It features various pairings of Burmese jade, turquoise, coral, pink opal, lapis lazuli, and lemon chrysoprase for the dial. There are three versions: small seconds, tourbillon, and minute repeater with tourbillon.
And since these stones are striking enough, the dial is clear of any numerals and logos—only the hands are present for time indication. My favourite? The Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop with Burmese jade and pink opal dial is simple and chic but refreshingly different.—Brian Cheong
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop
A LANGE & SÖHNE HONEYGOLD ODYSSEUS
The A Lange & Söhne Honeygold Odysseus is proof that Germans do have a sense of humour—who else would make a sports watch in Honeygold, their ultra-exclusive alloy that’s harder than steel but glows like molten sunlight? With a 40.5mm case, a rich brown dial boasting day, date and small seconds, and a bracelet so perfectly engineered it could moonlight as jewellery, this 100-piece marvel is both rugged and ridiculously refined. It’s the ultimate flex for those who prefer their adventures gilded.—Amrita Katara, regional editor, watch and jewellery, Tatler Asia
Read more: Anthony de Haas of A Lange & Söhne on driving the brand to create the most unexpected watches
A Lange & Söhne Honeygold Odysseus (Photo: courtesy of A Lange & Söhne)
A Lange & Söhne Honeygold Odysseus (Photo: courtesy of A Lange & Söhne)
JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO TRIBUTE ENAMEL ‘SHAHNAMEH’
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ is what happens when a watch trades its day job for a starring role in a Persian epic. This 10-piece limited edition takes the Reverso’s iconic swivelling case and turns it into a canvas for grand feu enamel artistry on the front and hand-painted scenes from Shahnameh—think ancient Persian heroes battling with flair—on the reverse side. It’s basically your wrist saying, “I read epics, what do you do?” At 45.6mm x 27.4mm in pink gold, it’s bold, brainy and just cool enough to make you feel like royalty every time you check the time.— Amrita Katara
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ (Photo: courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre)
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN INGENIEUR AUTOMATIC 35
With my picks so far, you would have guessed my love for gold—and dear readers, the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 in full gold is the pièce de résistance of this gilded obsession. A tribute to Gérald Genta’s 1976 design, this 35mm stunner is crafted entirely from 18-karat 5N gold, from its sleek case to its integrated bracelet with polished and satin-finished links. The dial, also in gold, features the Ingenieur’s recognisable grid pattern, paired with luminous appliques for a touch of nighttime drama. Powered by the automatic calibre 47110 with a 42-hour power reserve, it’s as technically impressive as it is visually striking. Add 100m of water resistance and five functional screws securing the bezel, and you’ve got a watch that’s equal parts rugged and radiant. What’s not to love?— Amrita Katara
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 (Photo: courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen)
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA REF. 6169P
Although salmon dials have had their moment, I never quite warmed to them, as few really complemented my skin tone—until now. Better late than never, the new Calatrava Ref. 6169P from Patek Philippe has won me over. The dial, described as opaline rose-gilt, is an exercise in understatement that feels both vintage and modern. The platinum case is refined and discreetly luxurious, and the overall proportions—38 mm with subtle flanks and a chocolate brown strap—make it the sort of watch I’d happily wear for decades. For anyone seeking a true dress watch with character, this one hits all the right notes.
— Annabel Tan, editor, watches and jewellery, Tatler Singapore
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6169P in platinum with opaline rose-gilt dial
CARTIER TRESSAGE IN YELLOW GOLD WITH BLACK LACQUERED DIAL
Cartier has always excelled at redefining the codes of feminine watchmaking, and the Tressage is its latest powerful new expression. Think of it as a sculptural bracelet, but on a leather strap, that happens to tell the time. The contrast of soft curves of twisted gold flanking a rectangular dial is nothing short of captivating. There are four iterations in the Tressage’s debut and my personal favourite is the yellow gold model with the black lacquered dial—elegant, wearable, and quietly defiant. It’s a piece that doesn’t shout, but certainly makes itself known.
— Annabel Tan
Cartier Tressage in yellow gold with black lacquered dial and shiny black calfskin strap
CHANEL J12 BLEU X-RAY
When Chanel launched the J12 X-Ray Pink Edition at Watches and Wonders last year, its translucent beauty lingered in my mind for months. It’s no surprise then that the maison’s latest J12 Bleu X-Ray immediately made it into my list of favourites this year. Limited to 12 pieces, the 38mm timepiece features 196 baguette-cut blue sapphires set on a sapphire crystal case and bracelet. The effect is hypnotic: shimmering, architectural, and unapologetically opulent. What’s remarkable is how the brand balances this extravagance with a whisper-light aesthetic. With the Calibre 3.1 skeletonised movement visible through the sapphire bridges, this is haute horlogerie disguised as jewellery—or perhaps the reverse.— Annabel Tan
Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray
CARTIER PRIVÉ TANK À GUICHETS
The platinum Cartier Tank à Guichets caught my attention immediately. In fact, the more I look at it, the more I like it. The jumping hour and dragging minutes are sophisticated complications that offer a digital way of reading time, transporting me back to my first non-analog timepieces. At the same time, it embodies true elegance.
Limited to 200 pieces, this revival within the Cartier Privé collection presents a compelling contemporary twist on its Art Deco heritage, with its 90-degree rotated display, repositioning the jumping hour to 10 o'clock and the dragging minutes to 4 o'clock. This is one timepiece that sparks conversation through its inherent character and intriguing history, not mere flamboyance. — Adrien Choux, regional director, Tatler GMT
Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets in platinum
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