Opinion: How Coco Chanel’s love for faux pearls led to a paradigm shift in jewellery conventions and empowered women
As Tatler Asia’s watch and jewellery editor, I am afforded the privilege—and immersed daily—in exploring the ever-evolving landscape of heirlooms and accessories that speak of important stories from the past. This continuous exposure has led me to think about the basic difference between fashion and style. Fashion is an ever-shifting sea of trends, but style … that’s an ocean of self-expression—personal, ineffable and creative. This contemplation of style’s eternal qualities brings to mind the legendary Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel.
Known for her pioneering spirit and innovative designs, Chanel not only changed how women dressed but also how they adorned themselves. Among her most significant contributions was the celebration of faux pearls and fine jewellery in an era dominated by high-end precious jewels. As we reflect on her legacy on her death anniversary on January 10, it becomes clear that Chanel’s audacity to blend real and fine jewellery was a radical departure that democratised luxury, making it accessible to a broader audience.
Chanel was always seen with her signature pearls (Photo: courtesy of Bettmann / Getty Images)
Before Chanel’s intervention, jewellery was synonymous with wealth and exclusivity. The early 20th century saw a rigid hierarchy in fashion accessories, where only the affluent could afford genuine jewels crafted from precious metals and gemstones. According to historical accounts, it was common for wealthy women to own only a few significant pieces, often worn singularly to convey status. However, the Great Depression shifted societal norms and expectations. In this climate of economic hardship, Chanel introduced her iconic faux pearl necklaces—a statement that challenged the very fabric of jewellery conventions.
She believed that “a woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls”, signalling that adornment should be abundant and expressive rather than restrictive. Her designs featured layers of faux pearls alongside genuine pieces, creating a striking visual contrast. This blending of materials not only showcased her innovative spirit but also encouraged women to embrace their individuality without the constraints of traditional luxury.
Even today, the brand continues to celebrate pearls in its jewellery collection, in sync with Mademoiselle Chanel’s vision (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / @chanelofficial)
Her fascination with pearls was deeply personal. She often wore them in layers to effectively juxtapose against her minimalist outfits. This practice set a precedent for future fashion trends. By mixing real pearls with glass beads and other materials, she blurred the lines between authenticity and imitation—an artistic choice that resonated with many.
Chanel collaborated with renowned jewellers like Robert Goossens in 1953 to create pieces that felt luxurious, yet were accessible. Goossens’ mastery in crafting faux jewels allowed Chanel to expand her vision, leading to richly textured looks and designs. This partnership exemplified how innovation in materials could yield exquisite results without the exorbitant price tag traditionally associated with fine jewellery.
However, Mademoiselle’s bold choices did not come without controversy. Her introduction of costume jewellery was initially met with skepticism from established jewellers who viewed it as a threat to their craft. Yet, as Chanel continued to champion faux pearls, public perception began to shift. Women found liberation in her designs; they could now layer necklaces and stack bracelets without fear of judgement or social repercussions.
See also: How Forms crafts its exquisite jewellery by letting ‘the gems lead the way’
Winter 2024 campaign for the maison showed a model wearing signature Chanel pearls (Photo: courtesy of instagram / @chanelofficial)
Chanel’s influence extends beyond mere aesthetics; she started a broader conversation around femininity and self-expression through fashion. By embracing faux pearls, she empowered women to adorn themselves freely, challenging the notion that luxury must come at a high cost. This democratisation of style has paved the way for future generations of designers who continue to explore the interplay between high fashion and accessible design.
Coco Chanel’s revolutionary acceptance of faux pearls transformed them into symbols of sophistication rather than mere imitations. Her legacy is a testament to the power of innovation in fashion—a reminder that true elegance does not come with a hefty price tag but with how authentically we choose to express ourselves. That’s pure style for you!
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