MB&F reimagines Bvlgari’s iconic Serpenti
Celebrated for its serpentine designs, the Bvlgari Serpenti showcases the Italian brand’s bold crafstmanship combined with exquisite materials such as gold, diamonds, and colourful gemstones. Founded in 2005, MB&F is one of the world’s leading independent watchmakers best known for its three-dimensional kinetic wrist sculptures. Given that this is the Year of the Snake, how apt is it that it has been tasked with reinterpreting the Serpenti into its own vision? The result is a stunning three-model collection, each limited to 33 pieces.
“Our collaboration is unique in the watch world because it bridges the two souls of our maisons and gives birth to a timeless treasure—a true collectible piece. The first-ever truly genderless Serpenti resonates with both contemporary gentlemen and ladies. It shows that superlative watchmaking can be generated by the unexpected pooling of talents like Max (Büsser) and Fabrizio (Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari Horlogerie’s product creation executive director),” said Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari.
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Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti in stainless steel, rose gold, and titanium
Taking its design cues from the shape of the snake’s head, the case features numerous complex curves from the metal to the five sapphire crystals that include the snake’s eyes and rear. The latter features a unique stepped crystal that resembles either the scales of snake skin or the rear window of a sports car, depending on your perception.
Büsser described the process as extremely challenging. “The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30m,” he said.
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Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti’s multi-facetted case
Stigliani wanted the eyes to be animated. This is achieved by placing the revolving hour and minute domes under the crystals. Made from solid aluminium, the left dome makes a full rotation in 12 hours while the right one in 60 minutes. Hand-applied Super-Luminova allows the “eyes” to glow in the dark.
Drawing from its experience in developing more than 20 calibers, in particular the manual-winding HM10 movement, MB&F created a remarkable movement with a large 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, held in place by a three-dimensional balance bridge.
The crowns for winding and time-setting are in the rear lugs.
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The large balance wheel of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti
There are three different versions—a grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes, an 18-karat rose gold with green domes, and a black PVD stainless steel with vibrant red eyes.
Side view of Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti
“The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise,” said Stigliani.
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