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Opinion: why Taylor Swift’s old mine-cut engagement ring may be the catalyst for a vintage jewellery renaissance

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 08月28日04:18 • 發布於 08月28日02:00 • Amrita Katara

For all the conjecture swirling on social feeds about Taylor Swift’s engagement ring—was it eight carats, ten or more?—what matters most isn’t weight but the mood the jewel conjures. The choice of an old mine cut, with its telltale squarish curves, generous culet, and almost fleshy, hand-hewn facets, is arguably Swiftian in its subtle rebellion. These stones, once the darlings of the Georgian and Victorian eras, boast a light signature modern diamonds can only dream of. Instead of the laser-like flash prized in today’s market, they flirt with shadow and a soft luminescence, responding to candlelight or a phone’s glow with a deep, enigmatic fire. These imperfect, languid faceted gems defy perfection—they’re for magpies who appreciate story, history and a sense of individuality over technological precision. In the age of AI and clichés, Swift’s jewellery choices may have an impact on the jewellery industry—and a positive one for old souls like me.

Celebrity endorsement of the old mine cut, once quietly reserved for vintage jewellery aficionados, has become increasingly visible. Natalie Portman’s antique four-carat engagement ring, studded with old mine cut diamonds, reflects the allure of storied stones. Behati Prinsloo’s art deco stunner and Emily Blunt’s Victorian-era earrings remind us how these vintage styles travel easily from the red carpet to real life. Even bolder, some stars opt for mine cuts haloed in unexpected coloured diamonds, trusting the shape to hold its own against any trend—like Zendaya’s vintage-inspired 5-carat old-mine cut set east-west in a unique two-tone gold halo, and American model and musician Gabbriette’s gothic cushion cut surrounded by a black diamond halo.

See also: Taylor Swift engagement ring details: diamond size, value, designer and symbolism

A close up of the old mine cut ring worn by Taylor Swift (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / Taylor Swift)

A close up of the old mine cut ring worn by Taylor Swift (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / Taylor Swift)

So why are old mine cuts and vintage jewellery styles suddenly everywhere, from red carpet necks to Taylor Swift’s ring? Partly, it’s a nostalgia that’s less about looking back and more about opting out—choosing a romance that feels lived-in rather than Photoshopped. The renewed desire for authenticity, for provenance, means vintage-cut diamonds (and not just actual antiques, but newly-cut stones in old styles) are in demand for those hungry for character and imperfection. Searches for vintage 1920s rings and elongated cushions have soared, directly reflecting this hunger for individuality, with the global vintage ring market projected to expand steadily at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 2.9 per cent from 2023 to 2030, according to the Vintage Ring Market Report 2025 published by research and marketing firm, Cognitive Market Research.

The ring’s shape—a cushiony, elongated silhouette—is undeniably flattering, elongating the finger and perhaps, more importantly, nodding to history without being restricted by it. Setting this stone in yellow gold, another deliberate move, gives it an old-world warmth. While platinum and white gold have reigned for most of the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the current yellow gold surge is both a reaction to decades of icy minimalism and a return to jewellery’s oldest tradition. Yellow gold was most recently at its apex in the 1980s, during an era of flamboyant design—think sculptural bands, statement rings, and visible, touchable gold. Its current resurgence hints at a desire for a connection to something real.

Swift’s ring also showcases a craftsmanship renaissance. Designed with Kindred Lubeck of Artifex Fine Jewelry, the piece features an 18-karat hand-engraved gold band, needlepoint prongs, and smaller diamonds on the shoulders—details that wouldn’t look out of place in the jewellery boxes of European royalty or seasoned collectors. The ring’s visible combination of prongs and a button-back setting—a nod to antique bezel design—enhances both security and antique style. These flourishes, paired with a robust cigar band, add a fairy-tale dimension and old-money gravitas, fuelling the heirloom look younger consumers now find irresistible.

Read more: Cristiano Ronaldo’s US$5 million engagement ring for Georgina Rodriguez: everything we know

Taylor Swift with beau Travis Kelce (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / Taylor Swift)

Taylor Swift with beau Travis Kelce (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / Taylor Swift)

One of the most fascinating riddles of Swift’s choice of diamond is its elusive carat size. From photographs alone, experts peg the stone anywhere between seven and 13 carats. The reason for such a wide range? Old mine cuts possess higher crowns and deeper pavilions than their modern cousins, which makes them appear larger face-up for their carat weight, defying neat classification or quick Instagram commentary. Their hand-crafted, irregular shapes and chunkier facets render traditional weight-guessing a parlor game for specialists. For Taylor Swift’s ring, estimates settle around eight carats, F colour, and VS1 clarity—a Goldilocks rarity that looks even more sizable in its intricate yellow gold setting.

The impact of Swift’s choice goes beyond mere aesthetics—her influence is set to accelerate the market movement towards unique antique and antique-style diamonds. As with every genre-defining album, the ripple effect will be felt: styles once confined to estate showcases will trend, prices for one-of-a-kind old mine cuts and skilled hand-cutting may jump, and yellow gold will win ever more hearts and hands.

It’s easy to fixate on size, price or provenance with a star’s ring. But the real story isn’t carats or cost—it’s a harbinger. Taylor Swift’s engagement ring signals the start of a new love story. This time, it’s wrapped in an old-money aesthetic—and it’s time we said, “Yes!”

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