No hearts, no roses: A fresh take on jewellery meant for Valentine’s Day
Let's be honest—Valentine’s Day can feel like a minefield of heart-shaped everything and rose-tinted marketing. But this year’s jewellery offerings are refreshingly sophisticated, proving that romance doesn’t have to be saccharine. From Buccellati to Tiffany & Co, the maison’s have redefined love through their all-new collections of jewellery to spoil her silly.
Here’s Tatler’s curated edit of pieces that manage to be meaningful, modern and cute at the same time.
In case you missed it: Valentine’s Day jewellery: When diamonds and gems attest to history’s greatest love stories
Messika: The cool girl’s diamond
Messika Move Uno ring (Photo: courtesy of Messika)
Forget dainty hearts—Messika’s Move Uno ring in rose gold brings an architectural edge to love tokens. The signature sliding diamond catches light with every gesture, making it perfect for the woman who would rather wear her attitude than her heart on her sleeve. It’s flirty without trying too hard—exactly what modern romance is like.
Harry Winston: Old-school glamour, with new rules
Harry Winston Lily Cluster earrings (Photo: courtesy of Harry Winston)
While the house of Harry Winston could rest on its legendary laurels, its Lily Cluster collection proves they’re anything but stuck in the past. Taking cues from its 1940s archives, these pieces transform vintage inspiration into something thoroughly modern. The interplay of round and marquise diamonds creates movement that feels organic rather than orchestrated—think less “princess fantasy” and more “power player with a romantic streak.”
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Buccellati: An Italian affair
Buccellati Opera Tulle bracelet (Photo: courtesy of Buccellati)
Romance feels effortless with Italian craftsmanship. Buccellati’s Opera Tulle pieces showcase its signature honeycomb work, creating an almost fabric-like quality in precious metal. It’s the jewellery equivalent of Italian elegance— sophisticated, lacey, but never trying too hard.
Qeelin: East meets edge
Qeelin Wulu Pearl collection (Photo: courtesy of Qeelin)
Let’s talk about how Qeelin is quietly revolutionising Chinese luxury jewellery. Its Wulu Pearl collection could have been another predictable East-meets-West mashup, but instead, it’s a cool lesson in cultural fluency. The standout piece? A seawater Akoya pearl suspended within a diamond-dusted Wulu silhouette in 18-karat white gold. It’s the kind of piece that works whether you’re closing deals in Central or hitting up Art Basel—smart enough to respect tradition but cool enough to make it relevant. This is what happens when culture gets a modern edge.
Shanghai Tang: Heritage redux
Shanghai Tang Fortune Infinite Knot earrings (Photo: courtesy of Shanghai Tang)
For those who roll their eyes at pink hearts and candy boxes, Shanghai Tang’s Fortune Infinite Knot collection hits different. Its take on the endless knot symbol brings jade and pearls into 2025 without the usual Chinese luxury tropes. It’s a smart pivot from traditional Valentine’s fare—perfect for the partner who appreciates cultural references with their drinks at Cardinal Point. The collection works that sweet spot between “I know my heritage” and “I run this town”. This is what happens when you skip the Valentine’s clichés and go for something with actual staying power.
Tiffany & Co: Engineering meets art
Tiffany & Co’s new Tahitian pearl designs and titan settings to the Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams Collection (Photo: courtesy of Tiffany & Co)
In a move that proves innovation isn’t dead in jewellery, Tiffany’s latest Titan Setting collection, designed with Pharrell Williams, brings something genuinely fresh to the table. The real showstopper? A clever engineering feat that makes diamonds appear to float mid-air—no prongs, no visible metal, just pure brilliance suspended in space. It’s the kind of technical flexing that would make both jewellery nerds and minimalists weak in the knees.
The collection’s spear-shaped motifs and fishtail settings add edge to what could have been just another diamond line, while the earring jackets can be mixed and matched for different looks. When you let a creative maverick like Pharrell bring his own spin to heritage designs, you get tradition with a twist, and it works.
Hermès: When picnics meet punk
Hermès Medor Picnic Gaine cuff bracelet (Photo: courtesy of Hermès)
Here’s what happens when Hermès decides to get playful with its heritage—the Médor Picnic cuff bracelet. It’s a clever subversion of the house’s iconic studded dog collar design, reimagined with woven wicker and smooth leather. The result? A piece that somehow manages to channel both Marie Antoinette’s pastoral fantasies and modern streetwear edge. The brass studs punctuate the natural wicker like exclamation points, while the swift calfskin keeps things luxe. This is Hermès showing how to let your hair down without losing your impeccable style.
Van Cleef & Arpels: Spring fling sans saccharin
Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Spring collection (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
Van Cleef & Arpels’s Lucky Spring collection takes a refreshingly different route to romance. Its motifs feature ladybugs and plum blossoms that somehow manage to be whimsical without crossing into precious territory. The standout? A Between-the-Finger ring where a carnelian ladybug hangs out with plum blossoms and lily of the valley buds—it’s nature-inspired jewellery doesn’t feel like it belongs in your grandmother’s jewellery box.
The rose gold and mother-of-pearl pieces are worked with that signature Van Cleef & Arpels precision, but there’s something distinctly modern about how the maison has handled these traditional motifs. Perfect for the valentine who prefers their florals in the form of jewellery, especially as it won’t wilt or wither.
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