Setchu’s Satoshi Kuwata reflects on his rise from LVMH Prize winner to his debut at Milan Men’s Fashion Week

Satoshi Kuwata has lived a life that many in the fashion industry could only dream of. Born in Kyoto, the rising Japanese designer cut his teeth as an apprentice on London’s Savile Row while studying womenswear design at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. After stints with London-based designers including Gareth Pugh, he worked in New York with Bono and Ali Hewson’s Edun, in Paris with Givenchy under Riccardo Tisci and then in Milan with the sportswear brand Golden Goose. Now based in Italy, he infuses what he learnt in each fashion capital into his design DNA. The result is Setchu, a gender-fluid label that doesn’t simply reference cross-cultural influences but embodies them completely.

“Living in these cities taught me how to observe, adapt and appreciate contrast,” Kuwata tells Tatler. “Kyoto gave me a deep respect for silence, simplicity and ritual. New York pushed me to be bold. Paris showed me elegance and history. London taught me experimentation. Milan, where I live now, offers a dialogue between craftsmanship and modernity.”

Launched in 2020, the brand name further reflects Kuwata’s unique transcultural identity, and comes from the Japanese concept of wayo setchu, the idea of finding compromise between Japanese and western styles. From a design perspective, this ethos is reflected in his pairing of Savile Row tailoring with traditional Japanese techniques. “It’s not just a brand; it’s a method, a philosophy of balance,” he says.

In case you missed it: Mission first: Private Policy New York brings its purpose-led ethos to Shanghai Fashion Week

Setchu founder Satoshi Kuwata (Photo: Setchu)

The designer’s creative process begins with the most fundamental of materials: paper. Specifically, he experiments with origami-style folding techniques to explore the possibilities of three-dimensional shapes. This often results in crisp pleats and creases across his elevated range of tailored wardrobe essentials, as well as multiwear designs that allow his garments to transform to a wearer’s needs. "It always starts with paper and a gesture towards it: a folding, a cut, a slit. Touching it, folding it, testing how it behaves," he explains. "Then I work with fabrics on the mannequin, but in a very intuitive way. I let the material speak. It's a tactile process, grounded in craftsmanship."

Backed by this meditative and precise design process, Kuwata sees himself as more of a tailor than a designer. “To me, tailoring is about discipline, empathy and structure. As a tailor, I am obsessed with form, cut and the most minor details. Design may be creative but tailoring brings ideas to life in a precise and tactile way. That’s why I always start from the construction—without a strong foundation, there is no design.”

Kuwata also has a deep appreciation for craftsmanship. Along with innovative materials like “paper denim”, which combines cotton and traditional Japanese washi paper, the Milanese brand proudly embraces its “Made in Italy” label by harnessing quintessential Italian fabrics such as cashmere, leather and silk. “The Setchu collection is a sartorial take on functional and utilitarian pieces that are timeless and long-lasting,” he says. “Our minimalistic sensibility, paired with the finest craftsmanship and attention to detail, creates clothing that is enduring and lasting in both style and function.”

Setchu spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Setchu)

Setchu spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Setchu)

While his designs may seem minimalist and even quotidian at first glance, Kutawa’s unique cross-cultural vision and focus on quality has led to industry-wide recognition. In 2023, he won the coveted LVMH Prize, awarding him a year of mentorship from industry insiders, as well as a €400,000 cash prize. A year later, Fashion Asia Hong Kong named Setchu one of its ten Asian Designers to Watch. Fast-forward to January 2025, and the brand was invited as a guest designer at the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo—the world’s most prestigious menswear tradeshow, in Florence—where it staged its first runway show.

Kuwata’s take on his brand’s quick rise? “I think Setchu brings a sense of stillness—a moment to pause and reflect. In a world of constant noise, our garments offer silence, elegance and balance.”

In June, Setchu achieved another milestone: it secured a spot on the official Milan Men’s Fashion Week schedule. “After debuting at Pitti Uomo in January, [Setchu’s] first fashion show at Milan men’s fashion week is not just a recognition of all the work, but a responsibility,” Kuwata says. “It means Setchu has found its voice and is now part of a larger conversation in the menswear industry.”

Setchu spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Setchu)

Setchu spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Setchu)

Setchu’s spring-summer 2026 collection drew inspiration from an unexpected source: Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. Kuwata went on a fishing expedition to the falls—he says fishing is a big passion of his that has shaped his mindset—and it provided the conceptual framework for a collection titled Chasing Rainbows by the Hour.

“My trip to Victoria Falls, with its misty atmosphere and the rainbow hanging over the falls, gave me [inspiration for] the colour palette and ideas about my transformative items,” he says. Further echoing Setchu’s philosophy of cultural dialogue, the designer also collaborated with LVMH Métiers d’Art to support initiatives that bolster local craftsmen in the African nation, from the Batoka Creatives to the Jafuta Foundation.

As well as tailored ensembles—Setchu’s signature—the collection showcased safari jackets with hidden handles so they can be carried as oversized totes; garment bags that transform into dresses; and oversized denim trousers that can be worn as skirts. In a direct call to the collection’s Zimbabwean origins, Kuwata also incorporated the traditional basket weaving techniques of the country’s Batonga women. These woven elements transformed sculptural hats, full-length skirts and extra layers worn over classic shirting and jeans.

In a world of constant noise, our garments offer silence, elegance and balance

By - Satoshi Kuwata

Kuwata’s experience at Pitti Uomo provided valuable lessons that helped inform Setchu’s Milan Men’s Fashion Week runway debut that saw Botanga baskets speckled around the industrial showspace. “At Pitti [Uomo], I learnt the importance of storytelling through atmosphere. The environment, the soundtrack, the pacing all affect how the clothes are perceived,” he says. “In Milan, I paid closer attention to how the energy of the show builds and how to maintain a cohesive emotional arc from start to finish.”

Still, Kuwata admits that putting together a full-scale runway show was a test of every aspect of his business acumen and resilience. “It stretched me in every direction—creatively, logistically and emotionally. As an independent brand, you don’t have a huge safety net, so every decision matters.”

Setchu jacket that can be carried as a tote bag (Photo: Setchu)

For all that Setchu has achieved in the past five years, Kuwata’s proudest moment remains refreshingly grounded: “Winning the LVMH Prize was incredible, of course. But my proudest moment is seeing someone wear a Setchu coat in the street—not a celebrity, just someone going about their day. That is when I knew the clothes are truly alive, that they are being lived in.”

As Setchu continues to evolve, Kuwata’s focus remains on deepening the brand’s identity rather than simply expanding. “I want to keep exploring this intersection between cultures to deepen the conversation. And I hope Setchu continues to grow organically, without losing its soul.”

NOW READ

The Beauty of Doing Better: Why sustainability, storytelling, and scent still matter

Clé de Peau Beauté continues its iconic journey with new Global Brand Ambassador Nicole Kidman

How Audemars Piguet redefined Swiss watch exhibitions with House of Wonders Shanghai