Clay walls, coffee scents: Inside China's urbanization experiment

LANZHOU, Sept. 11 (Xinhua) -- Nestled within a hillside cave, a coffee shop has found the perfect "earthy" setting -- the traditional cave dwelling, or yaodong, often found on the Loess Plateau in northern China. The unique blend of chic and rustic charm has made this spot a hit with young city dwellers, such as Wang Min.

After a long drive from Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu Province in northwest China, and away from the endless hustle and bustle, Wang arrived at Yao Coffee in Qinglanshan Township, Dingxi City, Gansu, and settled down for a cup of coffee.

In addition to the novelty of its charming setting, Wang was also drawn by the coffee shop's stunning pastoral views of undulating terraced fields and the chance to spend a night in a cave-dwelling hotel room -- a rare experience for urbanites. "Here," Wang said, "I can truly enjoy the serenity and unhurried passage of time."

As rural areas scramble to attract urban tourists looking for a getaway from their busy lives, rural cafés are popping up everywhere. Once seen as symbols of urban sophistication, cafés are now flourishing in the countryside.

Yaodong is a type of earth-sheltered dwelling that utilizes the thick layers of loess and favorable landforms. At the reclaimed yaodong of Yao Coffee, three arched gates have been carved into a newly constructed brick facade, leading to long, tunneled caves inside, with the loess layers clearly visible on top of the facade.

A giant, fluffy pink bear doll sits idle in the yard of Yao Coffee, overlooking the sprawling terraced fields. The coffee shop's Instagrammable photos have attracted tourists like Zhang Yuxin from Xi'an, Shaanxi Province, even if it means taking a detour during her road tour in Gansu to check it out.

"Since our opening in July during the summer vacation, over 20,000 visitors from across the country have visited the coffee shop," said Zou Jiajun, the café manager. The coffee shop was developed alongside cave-dwelling guesthouses this year with a total investment of 5 million yuan (about 703,888 U.S. dollars).

The new business has created job opportunities for local residents. Twenty locals have found employment near their homes, taking on roles such as baristas, waitstaff and cleaners. "The work environment is comfortable, the pay is good, and I've learned new skills while being able to care for my parents," said Meng Tian, a new barista.

While the cave café draws visitors, the cave guesthouses encourage tourists to stay longer and spend more. This consumer model not only boosts spending and creates jobs but also expands the market for local specialty products, according to Liang Hailong, the head of Qinglanshan Township.

The enhanced infrastructure and living conditions in rural areas have made countryside getaways more accessible. Years of promoting the rural revitalization initiative have greatly improved rural living environments, infrastructure, and public services, which in turn fueled the rapid growth of rural tourism, according to Zhu Qiantao, an associate professor at Lanzhou University of Finance and Economics.

China has long grappled with challenges stemming from the urban-rural divide. "Today's villages have become more livable, providing a range of fresh experiences that leave a lasting impression on visitors," Zhu added.

According to the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, in the first quarter of 2025, rural areas across China welcomed 707 million visits, generating revenue totaling 412 billion yuan -- increases of 8.9 percent and 5.6 percent year on year, respectively.

Meanwhile, China's thirst for coffee is accelerating -- per capita consumption frequency surged from 5.6 times annually in 2023 to 7 times in 2024, with annual per capita consumption rising to 22.24 cups, according to an industry development report released at the opening ceremony of the 2025 Shanghai International Coffee Culture Festival in late April.

The coffee market ballooned to 789.3 billion yuan in 2024 and is projected to exceed 1 trillion yuan in 2025, data from market research firm iiMedia Research showed.

The convergence of these two trends has led localities to leverage their unique heritage, geological strengths, and specialty products to craft a fresh rural café experience. Dingxi's cave-dwelling coffee shop is not an isolated event; similar coffee shops are thriving in other regions of northern China. Rural cafés can also be found by lakesides, at the foot of mountains, and in forests, fields, orchards, and vast grasslands.

At Yao Coffee, Zhang gazed out into the distance and said, "I feel it is a feast for both my taste bud and my eyes." ■