How Kai Huang’s obsession with vintage Cartier watches is inspiring a new generation of collectors
What would you do if your childhood watch ran 15 minutes fast? Most people would fix it. But what if, instead, you embraced that quirk and let it shape your entire relationship with time—and eventually, with one of the world’s most prestigious watch brands?
This is exactly what happened to the founder of the Cartier Collector’s Club Kaifeng (Kai) Huang, whose unconventional journey from owning a misbehaving quartz timepiece to curating rare Cartier treasures challenges everything we think we know about luxury watch collecting.
In an industry obsessed with Rolex’s dominance and investment returns, he has deliberately chosen the less-travelled road, seeking out Cartier’s most unusual and overlooked designs.
His philosophy is refreshingly contrary: while most watch lovers chase the latest steel sports watches or blue-chip vintage pieces, he hunts for asymmetrical cases from the 1970s, forgotten semi-precious stone dials and limited-production oddities that most collectors wouldn’t give a second glance—or even know about. It’s an approach that has not only built him a truly distinctive collection but also sparked a global community of like- minded enthusiasts who believe that passion should always trump profit.
Through the Cartier Collectors Club—launched as an Instagram page, which has organically flourished across Asia over the past two years—Huang has proven that the most meaningful collecting happens when you throw conventional wisdom out the window and follow your curiosity instead.
Tatler speaks to Huang about how his willingness to embrace the unconventional has redefined what it means to be a Cartier enthusiast in the modern age.
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Cartier Diamond Baignoire Allongée (Photo: courtesy of Tatler Hong Kong / Zed Leets)
How did you get into watch collecting?My journey started in primary school in China with a simple quartz watch. Interestingly, this watch had a quirk of running about 15 minutes ahead of the actual time. Instead of fixing it, I embraced this peculiarity and [would go on to set] all my watches 15 minutes fast. It became a personal habit to help me manage my time. My first luxury watches were a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso that I received as a birthday present, and a vintage Rolex Day-Date, [bought at] a Christie’s auction, with a special Japanese dial. These pieces drove my passion for high-end watches.
What draws you to Cartier watches specifically?Cartier fascinated me because it’s a brand that breaks traditional boundaries. While everyone wants a Rolex, I was seeking something unique. I was attracted to vintage Cartier watches, especially those with unconventional shapes from the 1970s. My first Cartier was a Ceinture from Amsterdam, purchased about eight or nine years ago. What appealed to me was the brand’s ability to create watches that are both design-forward and functional.
Your collection seems to focus on niche themes. Can you elaborate?My collection follows two main paths. First, I’m drawn to unique shapes, particularly the Cartier Bagnoire models. I started with a small quartz ladies’ watch, then moved to medium and larger sizes. Initially, I was hesitant about wearing what seemed like a women’s watch, but I’ve come to believe that watches are unisex. I’m always looking for something rare or unusual.
When I started collecting, I realised that to find truly rare pieces, I needed to [look] outside the box and explore quirkier or older models. My goal is to find rare models that aren’t often seen. Within the Cartier community, there are collectors who love modern pieces, but I’m more interested in uncovering something completely different, from years ago.
The second theme is semi-precious stone dials. I’m fascinated by how nature shapes these materials—each dial is unique, much like jewellery that captures natural beauty.
Cartier Bamboo Tonneau (Photo: courtesy of Tatler Hong Kong / Zed Leets)
How do you approach vintage watch collecting?It’s deeply personal. I always advise collectors to buy what they truly love, not just [make an] investment. When acquiring vintage watches, I recommend buying from local dealers when possible. This allows you to physically inspect the watch, understand its condition and build a relationship with the seller. Online shopping can be tricky—sellers might not fully disclose a watch’s condition or history. Always take your time, ask questions and be prepared to walk away if something doesn’t feel right.
What makes the Cartier brand so special?Cartier is unique because it’s accessible to people from all backgrounds. Whether you have a HK$20,000 watch or a more affordable piece, there’s a place for you. The brand [makes pieces that are suitable to buy for a range of reasons,] from wedding gifts to milestone presents. What’s amazing to me is Cartier’s rich history and marketing. They’ve created a brand that appeals to both men and women, with a wide range of designs that tell individual stories.
How has your watch collecting philosophy evolved over time?I’ve become much more open-minded. Initially, I was strictly against quartz watches and only wanted automatic movements. Now, I appreciate the convenience of quartz watches. I’ve learnt that a watch’s value isn’t just in its movement but in its design, history and personal connection. My collection now includes pieces that might have once seemed unconventional—like ladies’ watches or quartz models.
I want to collect pieces that I can hold onto for longer. Unlike some collectors who trade watches frequently, I look for something with history that can stay with me. Cartier is known for the Tank, but I’m interested in exploring the older, less-known shapes. Many of these vintage pieces are actually cheaper than modern models, and some have even been maintained by Cartier themselves. Whether it’s a symmetrical design like the [Cartier Cristallor Reference 78096] or an asymmetrical one like the Crash or Driver’s watch, I’m intrigued by shapes that tell a story and stand out.
Cartier Helm watch, circa 1950 (Photo: courtesy of Tatler Hong Kong / Zed Leets)
What advice would you give to someone starting their watch collection?Buy what you love. Don’t make impulsive decisions. Take time to research, think and ensure your passion for a piece remains strong even after a day or two. Don’t be afraid of potentially losing money— the emotional value of a watch that speaks to you is far more important. Passion trumps everything. A watch is more than just a device—it’s a piece of art, a story, a personal connection. So look for unique pieces, perhaps in the vintage market, where craftsmanship and design tell a more interesting story than mass- produced modern watches.
Sometimes, I buy watches that I don’t like at first. Take the Cristallor or even the Bamboo [Tonneau] watch—I didn’t like it initially. But I’ve learnt that many designs are timeless. A few years later, I realised the design is absolutely classic and can stay relevant with time. It’s perfectly fashionable, even as a vintage piece. I thank myself for making the decision to buy it back then.
Tell us more about the Bamboo Tonneau watch.It’s a quartz watch I got from Amsterdam a few years ago. What makes it special is its unique shape— like a boy with muscles after taking steroids. I believe it was launched in the early Nineties and only produced for about a year, originally targeting [women], with a quartz model.
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Cartier Cristallor, reference 78096 (Photo: courtesy of Tatler Hong Kong / Zed Leets)
Tell us more about another unusual case shape in your watch collection.[I have] a 1950s model [Cartier Helm watch], and there are only about 30 or 40 models out there. The watch is named after the helm or steering wheel of ships. It’s actually from a [forgotten] period earlier than the famous Cartier models of the Seventies. I find it collectible because of its unique shape and the history it adds to the maison.
Let’s chat about the Cartier Collectors Club, which you created on Instagram.The community started organically about two years ago. We realised that while Cartier has an official community focusing on celebrities, there wasn’t a platform for everyday watch enthusiasts. Our goal was to create an inclusive space where passion matters more than the value of your watch. We’ve grown globally, connecting Cartier lovers from different backgrounds. A highlight was creating limited- edition keychains as a way to thank community members who actively share their love for Cartier.
Any good stories from the club?One standout moment was helping a friend acquire a limited-edition Cartier [Santos] Dumont. Through our community network in Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysia, we found the exact watch he wanted—a peacock blue model with Roman numerals—at a reasonable price. It demonstrated the power of our community: connecting collectors, sharing knowledge and helping each other find our dream watches.
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