A flavourful life: Remembering Margarita Forés
On February 11, we were hit with unbelievable news: the death of Margarita Forés. Stunned, to say the least, we couldn’t believe the words we were hearing. It couldn’t be true. As the days passed by and it started to sink in, waves of brutal and beautiful emotions seeped through the veins of the F&B community she loved so dearly.
“I can’t face the day without her.” “It feels like I’m dreaming. I wish I was dreaming.” “She always welcomed me.” “I learned a lot from her.” “She made me feel like I could do this.” “I’ve admired her since high school.” “You could always feel her joy.” “Thank you for paving the way, chef.” “This is a national loss of unparalleled proportions.” These are some snippets of what people shared as we came to terms with this unfathomable new reality. There are not enough words that can begin to do justice to what it means to lose someone like Margarita Forés, but what’s incredible is that even those who did not know her deeply, are emotional, and in mourning. It’s proof of the Margarita effect: how she was able to connect with everyone, touch lives, and make every encounter meaningful, from fleeting chats to life-long friendships. She had this undeniable knack for making people feel important and seen; it was because she truly paid attention, she genuinely cared.
See also: Amado and Margarita Forés share the story behind their success in the Philippine culinary industry
Photo by Paco Guerrero for Tatler Philippines
Photo by Paco Guerrero for Tatler Philippines
She was always so wonderful with her many fans; she’d excitedly converse and spend a great deal of time taking photos with as many as she could. I actually know of someone who did not know her personally, but was such a fan that she was inspired to enter F&B, and even named her daughter after the chef. Hospitality and personable service came naturally to Margarita, skills she imparted with her teams. Eating a meal with or by chef Margarita felt like we were being welcomed home somehow.
Today, the Margarita effect has influenced our country’s F&B landscape on all levels. From starting off as a self-taught cook to becoming one of the greatest chefs in our country, it is without doubt that she has earned every stripe and accolade. Her journey started humbly as she turned her life around to forego accounting and fully pursue her passion for cooking. She flew to Italy, and the rest was history—her love affair for all things Italian began and never ceased to flourish. It was through lessons and on-the-job experiences that she learned the ropes of running a kitchen. She opened her catering company (then called Cibo di Marghi, and now, Margarita Signature Caterer), launched Cibo (celebrating its 28th anniversary this year), then Pepato, Lusso, Grace Park, The Loggia, and more. As the years passed, her experiences emboldened her creative pursuits.
See also: Flavours of My Youth: Margarita Forés Revisits the Dishes That Shaped Her Childhood
Photo by Mark Nicdao for Tatler Philippines
Photo by Mark Nicdao for Tatler Philippines
Margarita brought the flavours of Italy to the Philippines and her infectious obsession for Italian cuisine seasoned every tasty creation. As the Cibo and catering empire grew, and as Pepato broke into the scene, her status and rise to chef were cemented. As a child, I remember Tita Margarita catering in our home and seeing her toiling away in the kitchen throughout the night. Later on, I recall her bursting through the kitchen doors of Pepato (a brilliant concept that was ahead of its time) in her chef-whites, as she would go around the room to greet guests. At every wedding I’ve attended where she handled the food, not once did I notice her sitting down. Instead, she was continuously checking preparations, tasting and ensuring that everything was to her standards. Her hands-on nature is the secret sauce that energised all of her projects and had people flocking back, time and time again.
See also: Tony Boy Escalante, Margarita Fores, Abba Napa & More: Meet 5 Pillars Of The Philippine Dining Scene
Tatler Philippines cover, October 2001
Tatler Philippines cover, September 2008
Beyond her Italian love affair, she grew curious and became totally enchanted by our very own country. Today, she is known as a pioneer for modern Filipino fare and fine dining as a champion for local produce and the slow food movement. Margarita elevated how our cuisine was perceived not only by us Filipinos but also by the world. Through her elegant catering services, she prepared stunning tasting menus, charming tablescapes, and breathtaking floral arrangements that set new standards. By doing what she loved most, she taught diners about the endless possibilities of what could be done with local produce, and new ways to experience our flavours. The remarkable growth of new-Filipino cuisine would not have been possible without the bricks she laid. Chef Margarita travelled around the country to learn about heritage ingredients and the nuances of our people in order to create the most meaningful food. As a proud Filipina, she eagerly combined a taste of home with her beloved Italy, presenting innovative dishes with toothsome twists and turns.
See also: We asked 7 top chefs: What’s the point of pop-ups and collaborations?
Tatler Philippines cover, January 2006
Tatler Philippines cover, May 2021
As a culinarian, she broke down barriers and paved the path not only for what Filipino food would become today, but also for all chefs wanting to test new waters or dip their toes into the F&B industry—especially for women. In a male-dominated field, she persevered. Margarita did not stop at making her presence felt—challenges be damned, she came out on top. So much so that she was crowned Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016 and celebrated worldwide for her accomplishments. She touched the lives of many, both here and abroad, from the deep friendships she formed within the F&B world to her countless diners who have made lasting milestone memories over her food.
When it came to the F&B community, she was the queen. Margarita was known to love a great collaboration, not just to get to work and bond with her peers but also to feed her continuous pursuit of knowledge. She happily and wholeheartedly shared her learnings and her resources, mothering our tight-knit community. From dear friends to complete strangers, without question, Margarita would lend a hand in the name of food. By nature, she was a giver. She’d take it upon herself to tour foreign guests around the city and was always a graceful ambassador for our culture. In fact, whenever she travelled, Margarita would always bring bottles of her favourite taba ng talangka as a gift for chefs and new friends to share a taste of the Philippines.
See also: The Margarita Forés Effect: How the Lauded Chef Beguiles the Mind and Palate
However she was much more than just a chef, she was also a mother, a sister, and a greatly cherished friend. Her exuberant laugh captivated a room. Her optimistic outlook on life enriched those around her. Ultimately, her goal was to help others and to make people happy, and she did just that. This is exactly why she loved F&B and hospitality so much: to put it simply, it made her happy to make us happy. Thank you for making us all smile and inspiring greatness. I hope you knew how much you meant to so many people. Every time we pour a glass of white wine or chance upon a funky pepper mill, we will think of you, fondly. We promise to stay hungry and to eat with gusto. You’ll always have a seat at the table.
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