Where does oud come from? A brief history of the well-loved woody scent
Oud has become one of the most recognisable and sought-after scents in perfumery, admired for its rich, resinous aroma that blends earthy, smoky, woody and occasionally sweet notes. It carries an intensity and depth that few other fragrance ingredients can match, making it a favourite among luxury brands and fragrance enthusiasts alike. Yet for all its contemporary popularity, oud is not a modern invention. It has a long history rooted in both nature and culture, spanning centuries and continents.
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Extracted from the heartwood of Aquilaria trees, oud is produced only when the wood becomes infected by certain fungi, often including Phialophora parasitica, which triggers the tree to produce a dark, aromatic resin called agarwood. The tree reacts to the infection by producing a dark, fragrant resin, a process that can take decades to develop. This slow, unpredictable formation makes oud one of the rarest and most expensive ingredients in the perfume industry.
The origins of oud
Oud has long been used in religious rituals, burned as incense to purify spaces and mark sacred ceremonies (Photo: AI-generated)
Aquilaria trees, native to Southeast Asia, are the source of oud. Not every tree produces the resin; it appears only when the tree is naturally stressed or infected by the mould. Once infected, the tree secretes a resin that permeates the wood. The resin is then harvested and processed into oud oil, which is valued for its complexity, longevity and distinctive fragrance. Quality can vary dramatically: some oud oils are light and golden with soft woodiness, while others are dark, dense and intensely smoky. This variability is one reason oud remains a fascinating ingredient for perfumers.
Historically, oud has played a significant role in cultural and religious practices. In the Middle East, oud has been used in mosques, homes and royal courts for centuries. Burned as incense, it marked religious ceremonies, celebrations and rites of passage. Oud was also attributed medicinal and spiritual qualities, believed to soothe, purify or protect. Although the fragrant resin comes from Southeast Asian Aquilaria trees, it was imported to the Middle East, where it became highly prized. In South and Southeast Asia, the resin was similarly esteemed, often reserved for ceremonial use or as a luxury commodity. Trade routes brought oud to Persia, India and beyond, where it became a marker of status and refinement.
Harvesting and producing oud
The resin-soaked heartwood is distilled or extracted to produce oud oil, prized for its deep, complex and woody aroma (Photo: AI-generated)
The process of harvesting oud is highly specialised and labour-intensive, requiring both expertise and patience. Not every Aquilaria tree produces the fragrant resin; only those naturally infected by the mould Phialophora parasitica develop the characteristic dark, aromatic heartwood. Experienced harvesters inspect trees for signs of resin formation, which can include changes in wood colour, density and aroma, sometimes relying on years of observation to identify suitable specimens. Once a tree is deemed ready, the heartwood is carefully removed to avoid damaging the surrounding wood, as only the resin-saturated portions yield the highly prized oil.
Extraction methods further influence the quality and character of oud. Traditional steam distillation, the most common method, involves slowly heating the resin-soaked wood to release volatile aromatic compounds, a process that can take several weeks. The resulting oil is typically lighter in colour, more refined and nuanced in scent. Solvent extraction, often using ethanol or hydrocarbon solvents, produces a thicker, more concentrated extract known as oud absolute, which preserves deeper, smoky and resinous notes but can carry subtle chemical traces from the solvent if not fully refined.
The aroma of oud is affected by multiple variables: the species of Aquilaria tree, the geographic region of growth, the age of the resin, the environmental conditions during tree development and even the season of harvest. Older resin tends to produce darker, more complex oils with smoky, earthy and sometimes slightly animalic undertones, while younger resin can be softer, sweeter or more resinous. This intricate interplay of biological, chemical and procedural factors explains why oud varies so widely in scent and why it is considered both rare and luxurious. Each batch of oil is unique, reflecting the tree’s individual characteristics, making oud not just a fragrance ingredient but a natural work of olfactory art.
Oud in modern perfumery
In modern perfumery, oud adds depth and warmth, anchoring fragrances from smoky orientals to floral blends (Photo: Fragrantica)
Oud’s entrance into Western perfumery is relatively recent but pronounced. It has become a signature note in many high-end fragrances, admired for its versatility and ability to anchor compositions. Designers have blended oud with florals, spices and citrus, creating fragrances that range from smoky and intense to soft and complex. Notable examples include Tom Ford’s Oud Wood, which pairs smoky oud with vanilla and cardamom for a warm, sophisticated scent; Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Oud, which balances oud with citrus and incense; and Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Oud Satin Mood, which highlights the resin’s richness alongside Bulgarian rose and benzoin. These fragrances demonstrate how oud can be adapted to both traditional and contemporary olfactory palettes.
The future of oud
The rising demand for oud has put wild Aquilaria trees in Southeast Asia at risk, leading to overharvesting and their classification as endangered or vulnerable. High market value has driven illegal logging, prompting protective measures such as CITES trade regulations. To meet demand sustainably, plantation-grown trees and controlled inoculation techniques are now widely used, allowing resin production without killing the tree. Certification programmes and community-based cultivation projects further support ethical sourcing, helping reduce pressure on wild populations while maintaining a steady supply for perfumery.
Today, oud remains at the intersection of tradition and modernity. Its journey from an infected tree in a Southeast Asian forest to a bottle on a luxury counter reflects centuries of human fascination with scent. For those encountering it in perfumeries, oud provides a connection to history, culture and craftsmanship. Its smoky, woody depth has made it a symbol of sophistication, yet it retains its original ceremonial and spiritual resonance. From Tom Ford to Byredo, oud continues to captivate, a rare natural ingredient whose appeal transcends geography and time.
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