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Evening routine essentials: skincare ingredients best used at night

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 10月10日17:29 • 發布於 10月08日03:30 • Chonx Tibajia

Skin follows a circadian rhythm as precisely as the body does. By day, it defends itself from UV light and pollution; by night, it turns inward, focusing on repair, renewal and recovery. Cellular regeneration accelerates, barrier permeability increases and the skin becomes more receptive to active ingredients. This biological shift is why certain compounds—those prone to light degradation or that work best during repair phases—belong in an evening routine rather than a morning one. Treating the night as a window of opportunity rather than an afterthought allows skincare to work in concert with the body’s natural rhythm, not against it.

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Retinoids for refined skin

Retinoids like retinol, retinal and tretinoin remain one of the most studied and proven skincare ingredients. They increase cell turnover, refine texture and help minimise fine lines by stimulating collagen production. Because they are sensitive to light, air and temperature, they lose potency when exposed to UV rays. That makes them ideal for your evening routine when the skin is protected from sunlight.

Start with a low concentration, use it only a few nights per week and always follow with a gentle moisturiser. A small amount goes a long way, and building tolerance gradually can reduce redness and peeling. Using them consistently is more important than using them frequently.

AHAs and BHAs

Acids like glycolic, lactic and salicylic help dissolve the bonds that hold dead cells to the skin’s surface. The result is smoother texture, improved tone and better absorption of other products. However, these exfoliating acids can make skin more reactive to sunlight. Applying them as part of your evening routine allows them to resurface the skin without competing with UV exposure.

Alternate between AHAs and BHAs depending on your needs: AHAs for dry or uneven skin, BHAs for congestion and breakouts. Always use sunscreen the following morning, and avoid using them on the same night as retinoids to prevent irritation.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is one of the most adaptable ingredients in skincare. It strengthens the skin barrier, balances oil production, brightens uneven tone and helps calm redness. Because it is stable and non-irritating, it can be used both morning and night, but it often pairs best with stronger actives in the evening routine.

Applying niacinamide before retinoids or acids can help buffer potential irritation. Over time, it also supports moisture retention, making it useful for anyone introducing more aggressive ingredients into their routine.

Peptides

Peptides act as quiet messengers, signalling the skin to produce more collagen and elastin while you sleep—supporting firmness, smoothness and recovery within your evening routine. (Photo: Freepik)

Peptides act as quiet messengers, signalling the skin to produce more collagen and elastin while you sleep—supporting firmness, smoothness and recovery within your evening routine. (Photo: Freepik)

Peptides are fragments of proteins that act as messengers, prompting the skin to produce more collagen and elastin. While they are gentle enough for daytime use, they work especially well in the evening routine when the body is in its natural repair phase. Peptide-rich creams or serums can complement stronger actives by improving firmness and hydration without causing sensitivity.

Look for formulas with copper peptides or signal peptides, which have been studied for their role in maintaining skin structure and elasticity. Consistent use rather than high concentration tends to yield better results.

Ceramides and lipids

Ceramides fortify the skin’s barrier overnight, locking in moisture and preventing dryness so your evening routine ends on a restorative note. (Photo: Freepik)

Ceramides fortify the skin’s barrier overnight, locking in moisture and preventing dryness so your evening routine ends on a restorative note. (Photo: Freepik)

Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids make up the skin’s protective barrier, keeping moisture in and irritants out. At night, the skin’s water loss increases slightly, so replenishing these lipids helps reinforce the barrier and prevent dryness.

In your evening routine, apply ceramide-rich moisturisers after any active treatments. This step locks in hydration and supports recovery from exfoliants or retinoids. Those with dry or sensitive skin may benefit from richer textures at night, while oilier types can use lighter emulsions that still contain barrier-building ingredients.

Melatonin

Melatonin, known for regulating sleep, also has antioxidant and skin-protective properties, as noted in the 2023 Journal for Translational Autoimmunity. Applied topically, it can help neutralise free radicals and support the skin’s circadian rhythm. Using melatonin-infused serums or creams in the evening routine may enhance the skin’s natural overnight repair processes. It pairs well with peptides and ceramides, adding an extra layer of protection against oxidative stress. While not as potent as retinoids or acids, melatonin contributes to a more balanced and resilient complexion when used regularly.

Choosing ingredients that align with your skin’s natural rhythm can transform how effectively your products work. A considered evening routine is less about complexity and more about allowing your skin to recover, repair and reset overnight.

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