Watches and Wonders 2025: Analysing Van Cleef & Arpels’ idea of romance with the brand’s novelty launched at the Geneva fair
Van Cleef & Arpels has long been the purveyor of poetic watchmaking, by spinning tales of love and whimsy on the wrist. With the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate, unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, the maison once again leans into its favoured narrative of romance. This time, however, it trades the quiet stillness of its iconic Pont des Amoureux watch launched back in 2010 for the lively energy of a Parisian guinguette or al fresco cafe. The result is undeniably charming, but here we analyse if it advances the plot like a sequel or merely retells it with a fresh coat of enamel.
Firstly, a little bit about the timepiece’s features. It comes in a white gold case adorned with diamonds, measuring 38mm in diameter. Its dial showcases grisaille enamel artistry, creating depth with five distinct planes that recreate a starlit Parisian night. The automaton movement animates two lovers who lean towards each other for a kiss at noon and midnight, powered by a self-winding mechanical movement equipped with retrograde hour and minute functions as well as on-demand animation and a power reserve of 36 hours. The back of the case mirrors the romantic scene with an engraving of the couple dancing under lanterns.
See also: Watches and Wonders 2025: A conversation with CEO Matthieu Humair
The watch also features Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature double retrograde system, with two stars marking the hours and minutes (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
The automaton movement ensures the lovers’ arms lower as they lean in for their kiss at noon and midnight (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
The watch is, as expected from Van Cleef & Arpels, a visual delight. The scene on the dial—a couple dancing under lanterns before leaning in for a kiss—is rendered in exquisite grisaille enamel, a technique that has become something of a signature for the brand. On the dial, subtle blues and whites create an atmosphere that feels both intimate and cinematic. The watch also features Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature double retrograde system, with two stars marking the hours and minutes.
The automaton movement is where this watch truly shines—or rather, dances. Developed over four years, it brings an unprecedented fluidity to the lovers’ movements. Their arms lower gracefully as they lean in for their kiss, a mechanical choreography that feels almost human in its seamless movements. For those unwilling to wait for these twice-daily moments of romance, a push-button allows the scene to play out on demand—adding an interactive element to the watch’s charm. Technically speaking, it’s an impressive feat.
Savoir faire of the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate (Photo: courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)
But here’s where things get intriguing. The Bal des Amoureux Automate is undeniably an evolution from the Pont des Amoureux collection, which first debuted in 2010 and has since seen numerous iterations. That original watch introduced us to Van Cleef & Arpels’ vision of romantic automata: two lovers meeting on a bridge as their retrograde hour and minute hands brought them together at midnight and noon. It was poetic and innovative at the time—a fresh take on both storytelling and timekeeping. Subsequent versions added seasonal backdrops or day-and-night variations while maintaining the core concept. The Bal des Amoureux breaks free from the bridge setting but not from the overarching theme of Parisian romance.
This raises an interesting question about Van Cleef & Arpels’ creative direction. The brand has carved out a niche for itself with its Poetic Complications—watches that prioritise narrative over utility—and continues to refine this concept in ways that resonate with its audience. It delivers exactly what collectors admire about Van Cleef & Arpels: romance rendered in enamel and gold, paired with intricate craftsmanship.
In many ways, the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate feels like a natural progression: beautiful enough to dazzle, innovative enough to impress, and deeply familiar in its themes and execution. It’s a watch that will delight those who already love Van Cleef & Arpels’ romantic aesthetic while continuing to uphold the maison’s tradition of storytelling through timepieces.
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