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時裝週真正的壓軸?Phoebe Philo全新Collection F驚艷業界:極簡女王最不簡單的一回

VOGUE

更新於 10月17日02:10 • 發布於 10月17日02:03 • Sarah Mower

你以為本季時裝週已經落幕了嗎?且慢,在Phoebe Philo發表前,一切都還不算結束。今天,無數時尚迷引頸期盼的時刻終於到來:Phoebe Philo正式揭曉全新Collection F。依Phoebe特有的字母命名方式,該系列涵蓋了從2027年1月底至5月期間,將分批發售的所有新品。

快速瀏覽一輪Collection F形象照,便能歸納出幾個大方向。

首先,是Phoebe Philo衣櫥令人安心、持續演進的連貫性。 看到這系列,想必許多成熟、自信的女性都能如釋重負地長舒一口氣——在那些直視鏡頭、毫不在乎他人眼光的形象中,女人找到各種令人愉悅的自我投射。慵懶隨性與精緻洗鍊並存,整體散發著毫不費力、卻又含蓄撩人的性感,滿足了你對實穿性的各種合理期待;同時也像是向同類發出一種心照不宣的訊號:儘管如此,我們對時尚的熱情依舊毫不妥協,對時尚本身的迷戀,更始終帶著大寫F所代表的重量。

接著來到第二個印象:本季令人意想不到地出現大量華麗設計,包括裙撐、拖尾、披肩,以及帶有羽毛般蓬鬆質感的單品,彷彿重現高級訂製服的黃金年代。這些作品不免讓人聯想到Lisa Fonssagrives身穿Cristóbal Balenciaga訂製服、由Irving Penn掌鏡拍攝的經典影像。復古廓形的意象,被轉化為一種名為「裙撐式拖尾上衣」的設計。在Phoebe Philo的形象照中,該單品以垂墜、扭轉的拖尾蔓延至地面,將老派魅力與前衛美學揉合為一體。它以鬆緊帶抹胸式設計固定,可穿在腰部或臀部位置;下身搭配長褲,上身則可罩上一件帶有生活痕跡、經水洗褪色的男孩風背心或T恤。若擔心拖尾絆住腳步,也可以將它提起,隨意搭在前臂,讓行動更加方便。

Phoebe Philo系列的精髓,在於她乎天才般地掌握各種對比的平衡。

她為男性化襯衫與工裝褲注入流動柔軟的線條,卻又以「Peak」太陽眼鏡俐落而銳利的稜角形成對比;她將西裝外套反穿,讓正面呈現冷峻克制的姿態,背後卻意外露出裸背;她彷彿會對你說:「沒錯,就穿上那件樸素的畫家牛仔褲,再搭配一件長版絲質襯衫吧——這就是完美的晚宴造型。」還有一點:無論今天你想把造型穿得多麼低調,總會搭配一只單顆珍珠耳環,為任何場合增添一抹專屬於Phoebe Philo的優雅格調。

又或者,你甚至開始萌生結婚的念頭了?到明年夏天,當Phoebe Philo的忠實擁護者看見那條尺寸驚人的象牙白拖尾,或許真會有人因此動起婚念。拖尾以層層荷葉邊收飾,從一件白色、前後反轉設計的及膝剪裁洋裝背後華麗延伸;她再為整體搭配極度簡約的尖頭低跟鞋,形成恰到好處的對比。

這是一種視覺上的極致華麗,卻也再次展現Phoebe Philo式的設計哲學:以最樸素的白色胚布,成就最盛大的姿態。

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