Brewing new flavors of China's time-honored tea that once scented world
FUZHOU, Aug. 5 (Xinhua) -- Whenever visitors step into his store, Ling Jiangguo proudly serves them a cup of black tea steeped in tradition, rich with floral and fruity aromas, and a mellow sweetness that lingers long after the last sip.
"This tea type, handed down through generations, not only supports livelihoods but also connects China with the world and bridges the past with the future," said Ling, 38, who runs Yanyinghong Tea Co., Ltd. in Fu'an City, east China's Fujian Province.
Panyong Congou, a tea type once supplied to the British royal court and winner of a gold medal at the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco, rose to global fame decades after it originated in the mid-19th century, when merchants introduced black tea production techniques to the small village of Tanyang in Fu'an.
"Congou" and "Kung Fu" share the same Chinese meaning, symbolizing the craftsmanship behind intricate steps like withering, fermenting and blending. Today, this slender, dark-hued tea is being revitalized with new flavors through innovations.
"High-definition cameras and real-time sensors help reduce pest risks and ensure healthier growth," explained Ling, noting that his tea gardens also use pruning machines to improve efficiency.
Beyond advancements in cultivation, locals have also been perfecting the art of tea leaf shaking, a key process where fresh leaves are gently tossed in a container to trigger a controlled physical and chemical transformation, gradually releasing their aromatic compounds.
"About 30 years ago, we shook tea leaves by hand. Now, machines ensure even handling to develop more complex flavors," said Wang Zhenkang from the tea research institute of the Fujian Academy of Agricultural Sciences. His team has conducted extensive experiments to optimize temperature, humidity and precise fermentation conditions.
"Making quality tea is like nurturing a child. It brings a sense of joy," Wang added.
Modern technology has effectively boosted local prosperity. In 2024, the per capita disposable income of villagers in Tanyang reached 35,000 yuan (about 4,900 U.S. dollars), and the village's collective economic income hit 1.56 million yuan.
Yet the Panyong Congou tea faced turbulent times. During the Chinese People's War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression and the World Anti-Fascist War, the trade route blockade forced tea shops to close, leaving tea farmers without a livelihood.
Despite achieving a huge market success in the first decade of the 21st century, this tea became less popular about a decade ago due to fierce market competition.
"We had to bring innovations in cultivation, production and marketing," said Ling, adding that locals have been adapting by supplying tea leaves to Chinese new-style brands like Goodme and ChaPanda, which are popular with young consumers.
Three years ago, Chen Xiangxue left the southern Chinese metropolis of Guangzhou for Tanyang, her husband's hometown, to launch her tea beverage brand. Using Panyong Congou, she developed innovative products like tea-flavored ice cream and beer-infused tea.
"We aim to preserve Panyong Congou's legacy while breathing new life into it," said Chen, noting that the rich local tea culture is what drew her to Tanyang.
Tanyang's blend of tradition and innovation reflects the broader evolution of China's tea industry, in which heritage is preserved even as new ideas take root.
In Beijing, the time-honored Wuyutai, celebrated for its jasmine tea, launched tea-infused craft beer. In Anhua County, central China's Hunan Province, tea gardens have been transformed into scenic spots, where tourists can learn tea-making techniques. In Hangzhou in the eastern province of Zhejiang, visitors can wear traditional Hanfu clothing, sip tea and experience Song Dynasty (960-1279) tea rituals.
Data from iiMedia Research shows that in 2024, China's new-style tea beverage market exceeded 350 billion yuan, up 6.4 percent from the previous year, and is projected to reach 374.93 billion yuan by the end of 2025.
"We aim to create a cup of tea that leaves a lasting impression," said Wang, adding that he and his colleagues are currently developing egg-tart-scented tea leaves and anthocyanin-rich varieties to boost health benefits.
(Gao Yuxin and Li Binbin also contributed to the story.) ■