A brief look into the history of the hot cross bun
The beloved bun that is synonymous with Easter celebrations has longstanding roots and history, bringing more to the table than just its mild spiced flavour, and more recently, seasonal nostalgia. Consumed all over the world, it’s commonly found with strong cultural and religious roots in countries that were once a part of the British Empire, namely, Australia, New Zealand, Ireland, South Africa, Canada, and the Commonwealth Caribbean.
Traditionally consumed during Good Friday and to celebrate Easter, these buns did not always have ties to Christianity, instead, these buns interestingly pre-date Christianity, with their origins found rooted in paganism instead.
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Hot cross buns, a vessel that brings centuries of layered history to your plate (Image: Bell Bird Baked Goods)
Many cultures and religions include bread as an integral component of religious and secular observances, and it is suggested that the practice of baking buns marked with a cross, either through scoring the dough or marking it otherwise, dates back to the pagan Saxons where marked breads held ritualistic significance. During their spring festivals, likely for the celebration of Eostre—the goddess of dawn, spring, and fertility—it is said that crossed buns were baked. At the time, the cross was interpreted as representing the four quarters of the moon, the four seasons, or the wheel of life. These symbols were potent in its ties to the natural cycles of renewal and the rebirth of the world after winter.
In the 11th century, hot cross buns were beginning to be linked with Christianity, and by the 12th century, became heavily associated with the period of Lent and the commemoration of Good Friday, the day marking the crucifixion and death of Christ. Eating the buns on this day became a way to remember the sacrifice, and the end of Lent. Traditionally, Lenten rules involve abstinence of certain indulgent food items, and more recently, other indulgences such as social media.
Pophams' signature croissant hot cross buns, a seasonal treat in the popular London based bakery (Image: Pophams)
In the 12th century, it was common to abstain from food items such as eggs, butter, and sugar—all of which are used in hot cross buns. Eating the hot cross bun would therefore mark the end of Lent, the 40-day fasting period and penitence preceding Easter, and became a special, anticipated treat that signified the transition from austerity to commemoration and celebration.
The buns itself represented many adapted Christian symbols, with the cross, the spices, and other ingredients such as eggs and butter adapting to new traditions. The cross represented the cross upon which Jesus was crucified, and overwrote any previous pagan interpretations. The spices within the buns, such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice came to represent the rare and costly spices at the time to embalm the body of Christ after his death as a preparation for his burial. Whilst these are the main interpretations of the bun, there are many other superstitions surrounding the bun and Christ, including the bread itself representing the body of Christ, and the act of the dough rising with yeast was symbolic of the resurrection of Christ himself.
The popular nursery rhyme that cemented the position of hot cross buns in modern consciousness
By absorbing the ancient practice of marked bread and infusing it with detailed theological significance, the Church imparted meaning onto these buns, and making it so that key concepts surrounding Christ within the bible, such as the resurrection, crucifixion, and embalming were made tangible, edible, and memorable through the medium of food, integrating this sweet treat firmly with the Christian liturgical year and its narrative.
As they slowly grew in popularity across England, the familiar nursery rhyme, “One a penny, two a penny, hot cross buns,” cemented the phrase in popular consciousness. Published in the London Chronicle in 1767, the buns under this name were well established and widely recognised, especially in London.
A tea-infused dough with cardamon, cloves, cinnamon and Ruby grapefruit and Valentine pomelo peel (Image: Toklas Bakery)
Toklas Bakery in the midst of shaping their hot cross buns, kneading a tea-infused dough and adding cardamon, cloves, cinnamon and Ruby grapefruit and Valentine pomelo peel (Image: Toklas Bakery)
It no longer became a symbol within a closed religious context, but had become deeply integrated into the broader popular culture and economy. Now, in the 21st century, the apparent decoupling of the bun from its strict liturgical timeframe has allowed for it to be a mainstay baked good in many bakeries and grocery stores. With many bakeries and home bakers using a hot cross bun as a plain canvas for the incorporation of other flavours, it is no longer as heavy of a religious symbol, but rather a happy association that packs in seasonal nostalgia.
A seemingly simple bun with remarkable endurance holds much more history than it seems, and offers many around the world a direct, tangible link to profound religious narratives. For many others, it’s a playground of flavour exploration and their personal Easter traditions that evoke their own narrative of nostalgia, childhood memories, and the marking of Spring in some countries. Layered with not only butter and spices, it’s filled with intriguing stories, and ultimately acts as a testament to the power of food and history.
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