Opinion: Rolex vs Tudor—Has the crown outshone the shield at Watches and Wonders 2025?
Rolex and Tudor have always been an intriguing pair—two sibling brands with shared roots but vastly different approaches to watchmaking. This year at Watches and Wonders, their rivalry feels more alive than ever. Both brands, born of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision, share a common lineage but have diverged significantly in their strategies and identities over the decades. Watches and Wonders 2025 has brought this dynamic into sharp focus, with Rolex unveiling its first entirely new model in over a decade—the Land-Dweller—and Tudor continuing its steady ascent as a champion of accessible luxury. The event not only highlights the contrasting approaches of these two brands but also raises questions about how their novelties are strategically positioned each year.
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Rolex Land-Dweller (Photo: courtesy of Rolex)
First up, Rolex’s unveiling of the Land-Dweller at Watches and Wonders 2025 is nothing short of historic. This marks the first time since 2012, with the introduction of the Sky-Dweller, that Rolex has launched an entirely new model line. Known for its incremental innovation and evolutionary design philosophy that banks on tradition, Rolex rarely ventures into uncharted territory. The Land-Dweller, however, breaks this mould. It features an integrated bracelet, a fluted bezel and the much-talked-about Dynapulse escapement—which uses a sequential distribution system with dual silicon wheels, reducing friction and energy loss compared to traditional Swiss lever escapements. It also introduces a clear caseback, a rarity for Rolex, allowing collectors to admire the calibre 7135 movement within. Available in sizes of 36mm and 40mm and crafted in materials ranging from white Rolesor to platinum, the Land-Dweller is a bold statement from a brand that has long been synonymous with tradition. With this watch, Rolex has successfully pulled a rabbit out of a hat.
This boldness stands in stark contrast to Rolex’s subdued presence at last year’s Watches and Wonders. In 2024, the brand focused on subtle updates to existing collections, leaving Tudor to steal the spotlight with its Metas-certified Black Bay GMT and other crowd-pleasing releases. This ebb and flow between the two brands appears to be a deliberate strategy. In 2023, Rolex made headlines with its playful Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” dial—often referred to as the “puzzle watch”—but ceded ground in 2024 to allow Tudor to shine. Now, in 2025, Rolex has reclaimed spotlight with a release that feels like a once-in-a-decade moment.
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Tudor Pelagos Ultra (Photo: courtesy of Tudor)
Tudor, meanwhile, continues to refine its identity. At Watches and Wonders 2025, it introduced updates to its core collections rather than launching entirely new lines. The Black Bay 58 Metas Master Chronometer stands out as a highlight, combining vintage-inspired aesthetics with state-of-the-art precision certified by Metas. The Pelagos Ultra pushes technical boundaries with its 1,000-metre water resistance and dual-colour lume for enhanced legibility under extreme conditions—cool and quirky, to keep the brand’s spirit alive. These releases reinforce Tudor’s reputation for delivering high-performance tool watches at accessible prices—a stark contrast to Rolex’s increasingly exclusive positioning.
The interplay between Rolex and Tudor is not just coincidental; it seems to be deeply rooted in their shared history and strategic alignment. When Hans Wilsdorf founded Tudor in 1926, his vision was clear: to create a more affordable alternative to Rolex without compromising on quality. Over time, Tudor evolved into what some have called Rolex’s “testing lab,” experimenting with materials like ceramic and design elements before they were adopted by its elder sibling. This dynamic allows Rolex to maintain its aura of perfection while Tudor takes calculated risks that appeal to younger or more adventurous collectors.
However, recent years have seen Tudor step out of Rolex’s shadow to carve its own path. Since introducing in-house movements in 2015 and reviving vintage-inspired designs like the Black Bay series, Tudor has become a force in its own right. Its watches are no longer seen as “poor man’s Rolexes” but as thoughtful timepieces that offer exceptional value. This shift has created an intriguing dynamic: while Rolex moves further upmarket into ultra-luxury territory, Tudor fills the gap it leaves behind, catering to collectors who value craftsmanship without the exclusivity—or price tag—of a Rolex.
Tudor Black Bay 58 (Photo: courtesy of Tudor)
The question of whether there is true rivalry between these two brands—of course not. On one hand, their management operates in lockstep; every move by one brand seems calibrated to complement rather than compete with the other. On the other hand, comparisons are inevitable given their shared DNA and overlapping histories—in fact it’s what creates customer loyalty for both brands. For collectors and enthusiasts, this sibling relationship adds an extra layer of intrigue: choosing between Rolex and Tudor often feels like choosing between exclusivity and accessibility.
What Watches and Wonders 2025 makes clear is that both brands are masters of their respective domains. Rolex remains unparalleled in its ability to create timeless designs; the Land-Dweller is proof of this. Tudor continues to excel at delivering watches that resonate emotionally while offering a cool take on horology—a combination that makes it one of the most exciting brands in today’s market.
In many ways, this sibling rivalry—or symbiosis—is emblematic of Hans Wilsdorf’s genius. By creating two distinct yet complementary brands under one umbrella, he ensured that his legacy would endure across generations of collectors with varying tastes and budgets. As we look ahead to future editions of Watches and Wonders, one thing is certain: whether you’re drawn to Rolex’s groundbreaking innovations or Tudor’s accessible charm, there will always be something worth celebrating from these two icons of Swiss watchmaking.
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