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Where indigenous flavours meet fine dining: How Asia’s best restaurants celebrate culinary traditions

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 07月02日03:00 • 發布於 07月01日15:13 • Sasha Mariposa

In recent years, a quiet revolution has been reshaping Asia’s fine dining landscape—one rooted not in trends, but in tradition. Across the region, chefs are turning to the indigenous cuisines of their homelands, drawing on centuries-old knowledge, sustainable practices and deeply local ingredients to craft dishes that are both elegant and evocative.

Rather than borrowing inspiration from global food trends, these chefs are choosing to honour their cultural heritage and amplify the stories of the communities behind their ingredients. From highland grains and wild forest herbs to ancestral fermentation methods, indigenous culinary traditions are finally taking their well-deserved place on some of Asia’s best tables.

The result? A new wave of restaurants that marry refinement with reverence—where every course pays tribute to terroir, history and identity. Here are 11 of the best restaurants in the Philippines, Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia that are elevating indigenous foodways with thoughtfulness, creativity and respect.

In case you missed it: Heirloom grains of Asia: how these ancient staples made their way to modern tables

Toyo Eatery (Manila, Philippines)

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Filipino cuisine has long been dominated by lowland, Spanish-influenced dishes, but Toyo Eatery is actively broadening that lens. Working with indigenous and Muslim communities from Mindanao, the restaurant sources heirloom rice, adlai grains, and unique vinegars. By including tribal cooking techniques, such as the slow fermentation of pangasi rice wine, Toyo creates a culinary narrative that pays homage to indigenous Filipino identity, long excluded from the country’s mainstream food canon.

Baan Tepa (Bangkok, Thailand)

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Chef Tam Chudaree Debhakam’s Baan Tepa feels like an edible love letter to Thailand’s seasonal rhythms and regional produce. While the restaurant leans heavily toward farm-to-table, there’s a discernible undercurrent of indigenous influence. It is drawn from Chef Tam’s collaborations with farmers, foragers and artisans across the country. Ingredients like indigenous rice varieties, ancient grains and wild herbs often appear on her tasting menus, used in ways that commemorate their origins without romanticising them. Whether it’s a fermentation technique learned from rural communities or a forgotten vegetable revived for a dish, Baan Tepa’s ethos is one of culinary stewardship with a modern, elegant hand.

Read more: How top chef Tam Chudaree Debhakam of Bangkok’s Baan Tepa elevates Thai cuisine

Metiz (Makati, Philippines)

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At first glance, Metiz reads as modern Filipino fine dining. However, beneath the fermented sauces and meticulous plating lies a deeper conversation with the country’s local food and indigenous culinary traditions. Chef Stephan Duhesme is known for incorporating ingredients and cooking techniques from upland farming communities and coastal foragers, often sourcing directly from small producers in regions like Mindoro and the Cordilleras.

His dishes don’t announce their indigenous roots with fanfare. Instead, they offer layered flavours that feel both rooted and reinvented. Think smoked native grains, wild aromatics and heritage vegetables—all handled with research, restraint and respect. It’s a dining experience where nuance matters more than novelty.

Read more: Metiz Restaurant’s Chef Stephane Duhesme reinterprets Filipino food

Blackitch Artisan Kitchen (Chiang Mai, Thailand)

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Located at the cultural crossroads of Northern Thailand, Blackitch embraces the diversity of the area’s indigenous communities. The restaurant’s micro-seasonal menu highlights wild herbs, indigenous fermented soy pastes and ancient grains cultivated by hill tribes. Rather than elevating these traditions for show, the restaurant fosters a dialogue between chef and farmer, blending storytelling, fermentation and foraging into every dish.

Grace Park (Makati, Philippines)

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It may not be fine dining, but it is great food. The late and terribly missed chef Margarita Forés, a pioneer in farm-to-table dining in the Philippines, has consistently championed local food and often indigenous ingredients in her restaurants. Grace Park shows its commitment to local sensibilities shines through in dishes that feature grains like adlai (also known as Job’s Tears) and heirloom vegetables sourced directly from farmers, including those from Mindanao and the Cordilleras. Nothing feels forced or performative. Just thoughtful cooking that lets the ingredients speak for themselves.

Gallery by Chele (Bonifacio Global City, Philippines)

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Chef Chele Gonzalez’s self-described “anthropological cuisine” at Gallery by Chele is rooted in deep research and collaboration with farmers, fisherfolk and indigenous communities. The restaurant’s tasting menus incorporate heirloom grains, native fruits, wild herbs and specialised ferments—transformed through a blend of traditional and modern techniques. This award-winning venue honours Filipino culinary heritage with thoughtfulness and innovation.

Paste (Bangkok, Thailand)

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Known for reviving royal Thai recipes, Paste has recently deepened its commitment to indigenous and Northern Thai ingredients. Dishes now feature elements like purple sticky rice from Karen villages and wild betel leaves from Lahu farms. These are not museum pieces—they are living reinterpretations shaped by centuries of highland culinary exchange.

See more: ‘Bee’ Satongun of Paste Restaurant in Bangkok is Asia's Best Female Chef 2018

Dewakan (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)

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The name itself—dewa (“god”) and makan (“eat”)—hints at something elemental. Dewakan was one of the first Malaysian fine-dining restaurants to treat indigenous ingredients like Bario rice, jungle durian and wild herbs with the same reverence as foie gras or caviar. Its tasting menus are informed by the indigenous Orang Asli tribes of Peninsular Malaysia and the hill tribes of Borneo. By sourcing directly from indigenous foragers and smallholder farmers, Dewakan goes beyond using these ingredients. It’s sustaining the ecosystems and communities that protect them.

Read more: Creativity takes courage: Chef Darren Teoh on why failure should be an option

The Local (Bangkok, Thailand)

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More than just a name, The Local takes its commitment to Thai culinary heritage seriously. Set in a converted 70-year-old house, the restaurant offers a deep dive into regional Thai dishes, many of which trace their lineage to ethnic communities across the country, from the Northern Lanna region to the Isaan plateau. Ingredients like hill-tribe herbs, forest mushrooms and traditional relishes sourced from minority farming groups occasionally appear on the menu, folded into a narrative that prioritises preservation over spectacle. The kitchen’s research-driven approach has made it a go-to for local food lovers who want to taste lesser-known facets of Thai cuisine without the cultural window dressing.

Bo.lan (Bangkok, Thailand)

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Since its 2009 debut, Bo.lan has led the way in sustainable Thai cuisine. More recently, its focus on working with Karen and Hmong communities has brought ingredients like heritage rice, hand-harvested sea salt and forest mushrooms to the table. In doing so, Bo.lan continues to challenge notions of what “authentic” Thai food means.

Locavore NXT (Bali, Indonesia)

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While Locavore has long been celebrated for its “modern Indonesian” approach, Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adriansyah have spent years deepening their engagement with indigenous foodways across the archipelago. Their menus have often spotlighted ingredients and techniques sourced from remote and underrepresented communities, particularly in Kalimantan and Sulawesi.

Don’t miss: More than just a restaurant: Inside Locavore NXT

Wild forest herbs, heirloom grains, rare citrus varieties and traditional fermentation methods that rarely make it into the urban dining vernacular are menu regulars. Rather than marketing their food as explicitly “indigenous,” Locavore’s ethos has always been about celebrating biodiversity and hyper-local sourcing in ways that are respectful, research-driven and collaborative. Their work with foragers and small-scale producers continues to shape conversations around what modern Indonesian fine dining can and should look like.

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