Modern codes, classic soul: Brunello Cucinelli’s spring-summer 2026 menswear collection
Brunello Cucinelli’s spring-summer 2026 menswear collection, The Shape of Light, made its debut at the brand’s Casa Cucinelli showroom during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. The 50-look collection marks a clear evolution of the Italian house’s vision of menswear, drawing inspiration from fluid early-1990s tailoring while addressing the needs of contemporary lifestyles.
The presentation drew Milan’s most discerning fashion insiders, all eager to see how the King of Cashmere would channel his philosophy of “humanistic capitalism” through cloth and cut. What they encountered was a collection that reflects a maturing form of masculine desire—one shaped by nuance, not noise. Rather than shouting for attention, this collection whispers with such sophistication that one cannot help but lean in to listen.
Tatler brings you everything to know about the Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring-summer 2025 collection.
In case you missed it: Milan Fashion Week: Brunello Cucinelli women’s fall-winter 2025 collection merges instinct and reason
Back to the 1990s
The collection’s creative foundation draws from the refined elegance of the early 1990s, but Cucinelli is far too sophisticated a designer to simply rehash the past. Instead, he extracts the era’s authoritative drape while eliminating its physical constraints. Blazers are slightly lengthened, their silhouettes softened and made fluid through meticulous deconstruction.
This inspiration manifests most powerfully in the collection’s approach to proportion. Double-breasted jackets appear in classic patterns—pinstripe, herringbone, checks—but have been stripped of excess weight and bulk. The result speaks to today's sensibilities: formal codes that prioritise comfort and movement over rigid structure.
Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Brunello Cucinelli)
Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Brunello Cucinelli)
Signature Cucinelli craftsmanship evolved
The brand’s unwavering commitment to material excellence finds its most potent expression in the collection’s fabric story. The trinity of wool, silk and linen creates sophisticated and lightweight silhouettes. When Cucinelli crafts a trench coat from pure silk, he is not indulging—he is demonstrating what true luxury feels like against the skin.
The deconstructed tailoring that has become a Cucinelli signature reaches new heights here. Trousers embrace increased volume and softer shapes through double pleats and natural waist positioning. The effect is both visually compelling and practically liberating—these clothes move with their wearer rather than restraining them.
Perhaps most telling is the collection’s embrace of “deformalisation”—a refined blending of sartorial and casual elements. T-shirts layered under impeccably tailored blazers, utilitarian fireman’s jackets paired with refined corduroy shorts.
Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Brunello Cucinelli)
Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Brunello Cucinelli)
A palette of silent protagonists
The Brunello Cucinelli colour story for men’s spring-summer 2026 balances commercial intelligence with artistic sensitivity. The foundation remains rooted in refined neutrals—white, beige, brown, navy—forming the timeless backbone of any discerning gentleman’s wardrobe.
But the season’s highlight lies in its “silent protagonists”: vibrant hues of orange, apricot, coral red and royal blue, which appear as carefully chosen accents rather than overwhelming statements.
Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Brunello Cucinelli)
Brunello Cucinelli men’s spring-summer 2026 (Photo: Brunello Cucinelli)
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