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Chef Alfonso Iaccarino’s return to Macau unfolded as a graceful homage to the soul and seasons of southern Italy

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 06月03日04:10 • 發布於 06月03日03:47 • Tatler Hong Kong

It has been nearly two decades since chef Alfonso Iaccarino first brought the flavours of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi to Asia, and this spring, the Italian maestro returned to Macau for a limited-time celebration of his enduring culinary vision. Early May, guests were able to savour exquisite Italian culinary traditions with classic dishes at Don Alfonso 1890 in Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, where he showcased classic dishes rooted in the sun-drenched traditions of southern Italy, shaped by four generations of family philosophy and decades of global acclaim.

Iaccarino’s influence on Italian gastronomy is far-reaching. As co-founder of Don Alfonso 1890, one of Italy’s most respected family-owned restaurants, he has long championed sustainability, seasonality and a deep connection to the land. These values are not simply rhetorical. At Le Peracciole, the family’s organic estate on the Amalfi Coast, heirloom vegetables, ancient olive trees and rare citrus varieties are cultivated using time-honoured methods, supplying the backbone for many of the dishes served in his restaurants. The result is a cooking style that feels both generous and grounded—classic in its soul, but subtly modern in execution.

Spaghetti with zucchini, basil and Provolone cheese(Photo: SJM)

Spaghetti with zucchini, basil and Provolone cheese(Photo: SJM)

His return to Macau was more than a guest appearance; it was a reconnection with a city where his culinary ideals found fertile ground. Since opening its first outpost at Grand Lisboa in 2007 (later renamed Casa Don Alfonso in 2017), the Don Alfonso name has become synonymous with elevated yet approachable Italian dining in Macau. Today, that legacy lives on in two distinct venues: the more relaxed, family-friendly Casa Don Alfonso and the refined fine-dining flagship Don Alfonso 1890 at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau.

During this time, Iaccarino was in residence, personally overseeing service and sharing the story behind each dish, and each restaurant presented a curated à la carte selection of Iaccarino’s signature dishes: elegant compositions that pay tribute to the southern Italian table while reflecting the precision and care that define his cooking.

The legendary chef returned for a two-week residency at SJM’s Don Alfonso 1890 (Photo: SJM)

The legendary chef returned for a two-week residency at SJM’s Don Alfonso 1890 (Photo: SJM)

Don Alfonso 1890 offered a more polished experience with plates such as wild turbot with roasted leek, honey bean and buffalo mozzarella, baby lamb from Aveyron served with morel mushrooms and lardo di Colonnata, and a Brittany blue lobster paired with artichokes. Dessert was equally evocative: a delicate lemon soufflé accompanied by limoncello ice cream that captured the essence of the Amalfi Coast in a single, vibrant spoonful.

While the menus span both complexity and comfort, what unites them is an unwavering commitment to produce. Whether it’s the prized San Marzano tomatoes used in the soup at Casa Don Alfonso or the artisanal cheese and vegetables elevating the mains at Don Alfonso 1890, the ingredients speak of a philosophy that values the land as much as the plate.

In a city where indulgence often dazzles louder than it nourishes, Iaccarino’s return offered something quieter but far more enduring, a reminder that true luxury is not found in flourish or excess, but in the depth of memory, the integrity of craft, and the kind of cooking that speaks, simply and assuredly, of where it comes from.

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