Fernando Jorge on crafting fluid jewels: The Brazilian designer’s journey and vision for jewellery
On his visit to Hong Kong’s Joyce boutique to showcase his fine jewellery collection, jewellery designer Fernando Jorge opened up about the journey that transformed his passion from engineering sketches to creating fluid, elegant jewels that capture the spirit of his homeland.
With a design philosophy rooted in movement and cultural expression, Jorge shares with Tatler how he challenges traditional jewellery norms and connects emotionally with a new generation of luxury connoisseurs.
Disco earrings (Photo: courtesy of Joyce)
How did you first become interested in jewellery design?
It was a combination of small decisions and accidents that led me to jewellery. I always had a very visual relationship with the world and a natural talent for drawing, but I didn’t have references for creative careers around me growing up. I initially studied engineering, then logistics, before realising I needed to pursue something more creative.
When I started studying product design, I got an internship at a Brazilian jewellery workshop doing technical drawings. That experience blew my mind—I was working with the most beautiful materials in nature, creating objects that held deep emotional meaning. I fell in love with jewellery and realised this was what I wanted to do.
Your designs have a distinctly fluid aesthetic. Where does that come from?
It’s a reflection of my cultural background and my interpretation of Brazil. I wanted to capture a sense of rhythm, movement and organic effortlessness but still maintain elegance. When I launched my first collection in 2010-11, the jewellery was very spiky and gothic. [Then] I came out with these soft, fluid pieces that felt new and essential. I’m aiming for something natural and ethereal. Now, 15 years later, a lot of jewellery has this free-form quality that moves with the body. I’m still true to that original spark, but my sensibility has also been refined with my time in London.
What is your creative process when designing a new collection?
It usually starts with an intention or an idea I want to explore. For example, I went from the concept of fluidity to electricity—from something dripping to something buzzing out of the body. Then I sketch and find a name or concept to reinforce the idea. The choice of materials comes with the intention. Sometimes it’s a continuation of something I’ve done before; other times it’s about exploring new combinations or techniques. But I’m always trying to balance innovation with timelessness. I want to be part of the timeline of jewellery that has existed for generations, while still making my mark on the present.
Fernando Jorge Stream Lines Wave Necklace (Photo: courtesy of Joyce)
You’ve mentioned in other interviews about wanting to challenge European norms in jewellery design. How do you do that
When I started, fine jewellery felt a bit dusty and lacked energy, especially for younger generations. I wanted to find a style that was appealing [to them] but still [celebrated] craftsmanship and beauty. I was inspired by designers who were breaking away from tradition— like H Stern’s collections with Brazilian musicians or Stephen Webster’s rock n’ roll edge.
For me, it was about bringing my Brazilian perspective while still creating refined fine jewellery. I wanted to show that jewellery can be cool and refer to whatever inspires you, not just follow established formulas.
What are some of the biggest challenges you face as an independent designer in the luxury jewellery world?
The biggest challenge is balancing creativity with the realities of running a business in a very competitive landscape. The luxury world is increasingly dominated by big conglomerates with endless resources. As an independent brand, you have to stay authentic and grounded while also evolving and staying motivated. It can be deflating to see [work similar to your own] pop up from both smaller and bigger designers. But I try to focus on staying creatively independent and continuing to evolve. My philosophy is to put love into every piece and allow [the brand] to grow into new things. Nothing’s keeping me to the same place or way of thinking if it doesn’t work any more.
What can we expect to see from Fernando Jorge in the future?
I’m always working on new things, but I like to be patient and let ideas accumulate. I dream of working with more significant precious stones, but in a way that still feels designed rather than just mounted. I’d also love to create more custom pieces for memorable moments, like the iconic jewels designed for figures like Elizabeth Taylor or the Duchess of Windsor [Wallis Simpson]. Ultimately, I want to keep pushing boundaries while staying true to that original spark that drew me to jewellery. It’s about creating pieces that are meaningful, beautiful and culturally relevant for our times.
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