Chef Nobu Matsuhisa on the nuances of a master: “You have to learn from everything in life”
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa sits across from me with a warm smile that radiates positivity, embodying the essence of cheerfulness, friendliness and humour. His journey through life is nothing short of extraordinary. Today, he is a beacon of Peruvian-Japanese cuisine, renowned for creating luxurious dining experiences that captivate taste buds worldwide. Nobu’s name has evolved into a celebrated brand he has dedicated his heart and soul to building. Over the years, he has instilled his passion and beliefs in his team, fostering an ecosystem that thrives on creativity and excellence. Chef Nobu’s legacy is not just about food but a shared vision that continues to inspire.
Born in 1949 in Saitama, Japan, Nobu grew up curious about food and knew early on that he wanted to pursue a career as a chef. In Tokyo, he studied the delicate and precise art of sushi-making, gaining experience from several kitchens around one of the world’s most notorious food capitals. He immersed himself in the Japanese culture of perfection, obsession and quality, profoundly exploring the significance of simplicity. These are the very elements that make Japanese cuisine not only remarkably delicious but also deceptively complex to master.
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Chef Nobu Matsuhisa (Photo: Sonny Thakur)
In 1973, Nobu boldly moved to Lima, Peru, in search of fresh opportunities and change. Little did he know that this decision would change his life forever. Exposure to Peruvian cuisine and their native produce left him wide-eyed and extra curious. His perspective was forever changed. “Peru had a different food culture, chillies, garlic, olive oils, cilantro… Japanese cooking never uses these kinds of ingredients. It inspired me a lot,” he exclaimed. Amazed, excited and emboldened, he opened his first restaurant and began experimenting with the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines, the style he pioneered and is known for today. However, things in Peru were unexpected, and the time spent at his restaurant was cut short.
As the then-up-and-coming chef was still finding his footing and building his reputation, he picked himself up and movedto Los Angeles in 1987. Here, things took fruitful turns, and his culinary career blossomed. His first namesake restaurant, Matsuhisa, showcased the chef’s early experimentation with Peruvian-Japanese fare and proved that when determination and perseverance meet passion, not much can prevent success.
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The restaurant did not take long to turn heads–the world took notice. Nobu’s signature Peruvian- Japanese creations shocked, surprised and impressed foodies around LA, including a range of Hollywood celebrities. Actor Robert De Niro became a regular patron and spent years courting chef Nobu, convincing him to partner up for a new restaurant venture in New York City. After much back-and-forth, Nobu took the leap of faith and the eponymous Nobu restaurant concept was born. Nobu, New York, hit the ground running, quickly becoming one of the city’s hottest dining destinations. The brand developed a cult-like following of loyal supporters and curious gourmands, encouraging the team to take things to extremely new heights, eventually launching Nobu hotels. Today, they have 46 hotels and over 50 restaurants and even expanded into residences.
To think that this mega-enterprise stemmed from a passion for cooking is curious and beautiful. While it was a mountainous progression, it made sense since all of the sprouting branches of their diversified portfolio are rooted in a desire to serve and make people happy.
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa (Photo: Sonny Thakur)
However, success did not come without its challenges–failure helped mould Nobu into the man he is today. He embraced the opportunity and started risk right down the barrel. In earlier days, Nobu rolled the dice and accepted a friend’s offer to start a restaurant in Alaska. Still, after just 50 days, an electrical fire caused the establishment to burn down–an experience that Nobu dubbed one of his life’s worst moments. However, he learnt crucial lessons from this setback: always maintain a positive mindset, learn from bad experiences and progress step by step. He believes that challenges are growth opportunities, and instead of being discouraged, he focuses on moving forward, even if it’s just one millimetre at a time. This philosophy of resilience and continuous improvement has been fundamental to his success, teaching him to view obstacles as chances to learn and evolve rather than as roadblocks.
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“If I did not have this experience, maybe I wouldn’t be here. I like to take something from bad experiences. I learn from them, you know. I’m always thinking positively. I don’t want to be negative. You have to learn from everything in life, and I don’t want life to go by too quickly. I like to go one-by-one, step-by-step, even one millimetre.” Nobu underscores the importance of not letting life pass you by, telling us to be mindful and appreciative of every moment, from the major to the minuscule.
When he started, he wasn’t sure that the fusion of Peruvian and Japanese food would be accepted, but he did it anyway. He listened, refined and presented the public with something unseen. “Food is like fashion,” he told Tatler. Through this comparison, Nobu conveyed that every chef has their style and that people won’t know what flavours they will love or what outfits may look good on them until they try them. “People are always looking for something new,” he stated, sharing why he was bold enough to venture into something untested. “Good food is good food. People want good food,” he said, underscoring the power of a great product. No matter how alien a dish may seem at first, delicious is delicious in any language.
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With every great idea, you need strong execution. Chef Nobu has abided by the culture of sustainability his entire life; it is, in fact, the backbone of his cooking. It was never a trend but a practice to live by to him. As someone who loves food and dramatically admires the farmers, producers, and ingredients, minimising waste makes him happy and pays respect to each level of the supply chain. By making the most out of the produce they have, engaging in head-to-tail cooking, and using vegetable scraps and byproducts in inventive ways, such as in sauces or with other cooking methods, he and the team not only become more efficient but also more innovative.
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa (Photo: Sonny Thakur)
Teamwork lies at the heart of Nobu’s success, driving the growth of a company that spans the globe. By cultivating a corporate culture that is both welcoming and disciplined, he fosters strong connections between peers and leaders, creating a dynamic environment that not only encourages collaboration but also nurtures employee loyalty. This unity has led to a devoted team of long-time staff, deeply aligned with the brand’s ethos, who now lead outposts and teams worldwide, ensuring that Nobu’s vision remains consistent everywhere. Moreover, teamwork provides an invaluable opportunity for continuous learning, further strengthening the foundation of this remarkable enterprise.
“I have often hit the wall and had big problems but never stopped.” He tells all younger chefs starting in the industry or anyone looking for additional motivation, “Keep going and always dream big. Just do it. Don’t fret about the mistakes or the failures. You will learn what works and what does not. Don’t stop, don’t give up, and keep learning. Life is not short. Life is long. Enjoy it, and do your best.”
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