Art of Conviction: How Cindy Chao’s Unwavering Vision Transformed Modern Jewellery into Art Pieces
On a regular Thursday morning in Taipei’s Zhongshan district, renowned for its bevy of international design and jewellery boutiques, Cindy Chao walked into her brand’s gallery at the prestigious Regent Hotel to meet Tatler. The previous evening had been one of celebration for her first-ever retrospective exhibition in her hometown, and understandably, a caffeine boost was needed to restore her usual vigour.
“The opening cocktail was set to end at 8pm,” says Chao, sipping a cup of black coffee. “But many collectors arrived later in the evening, wearing equally stunning pieces [as those on show]. Suddenly, it seemed as if the exhibition extended beyond the display cases, making it impossible to draw the evening to a close.”
Read more: Five milestones in Cindy Chao’s 20 years of jewellery artistry and innovation
Jewellery artist Cindy Chao
Art connoisseurs and collectors will know that 2024 marks the 20th anniversary of Chao’s eponymous brand. Twenty Years in Art: A Retrospective Journey, an exhibition tracing her creative evolution, has been held in various cities across Asia, with Taipei, her hometown, chosen as the final destination—and evidently, the most poignant one.
“It was a truly emotional moment,” says Chao, contemplating the significance of the night before. “It was a long and delicate process to persuade private collectors to loan their pieces for this exhibition. Even until moments before opening, we weren’t certain if some of the masterpieces would arrive in time.”
2022 Black Label Masterpiece X & XI Spring Cardamom Brooches
2007 Black Label Masterpiece Winter Branch Necklace and Bangle
This was one of the reasons the contents of the exhibition varied from city to city. In Taipei, several pieces of particular significance to Chao’s artistic journey were on display. Set in the newly opened Fubon Art Museum, the show featured 28 pieces, including nine pieces on loan from private collectors—many of which were being shown to the public for the first time.
The journey through the exhibition begins with the 2007 Black Label Masterpiece Winter Branch necklace and bangle—the inaugural pieces in the brand’s iconic Four Seasons series, and creations that paved her way to international acclaim. Another significant piece on display is the 2016 Black Label Masterpiece IX Winter Leaves necklace: featuring 6,000 diamonds totalling approximately 240 carats, it is engineered with 11 hidden joints that allow it to perfectly conform to the wearer’s neckline and collarbone.
2013 Black Label Masterpiece VIII Fish Brooch
But it is the 2013 Black Label Masterpiece VIII Fish brooch that best represents the pinnacle of Chao’s artistry. This piece marked the start of her pioneering experimentation with titanium, a relatively new material in high jewellery at the time. Her innovative vision and creative bravery led her to harness this unconventional medium that was unprecedented in the industry. “I flew to Geneva to a jewellery atelier with my wax sculpture of the goldfish,” recalls Chao, who crafts her visions in wax rather than sketching them. “When I showed the craftsmen what I wanted to achieve, they looked at me and asked, ‘Who are you?’” The atelier Chao approached was a long-established institution that had been working with historic jewellery maisons; for independent creators like Chao, gaining access was almost impossible. “I had a vision that not everybody could see,” Chao says. “The only thing I could do was to insist and hope they [the craftsmen] would see it too.”
Weeks later, a call from Geneva offered good news. A masterwork of extraordinary complexity was born: a goldfish captured in mid-swim, its multi-layered tail flowing with lifelike fluidity. The piece, featuring delicate titanium work that appeared to freeze a moment in water, took three years to complete, and was the first time titanium was used in such intricate jewellery work. The atelier has been a close creative partner for Chao ever since.
2019 Black Label Masterpiece Aurora Butterfly
2013-2014 Black Label Masterpiece I Ballerina Butterfly Brooch was completed
Despite its technical triumph, the brooch was too far ahead of its time—it took a further eight years to find a buyer. “My staff advised me, ‘Perhaps you should stop making these masterpieces!’” Chao recalls with a laugh. “Financially, it is indeed challenging. But it is through the Masterpiece series that I can set my creativity free.” Several creations followed that reflected this vision: the 2013-2014 Black Label Masterpiece I Ballerina Butterfly brooch in collaboration with actress Sarah Jessica Parker ingeniously depicts both a butterfly and a dancing ballerina simultaneously; the 2021 Black Label Masterpiece VII Flower Fairy brooch; and the 2022 Black Label Masterpiece X & XI Spring Cardamom brooches all showcase Chao’s gift for translating nature’s ephemeral beauty into tangible works of art.
The Masterpiece series has confirmed Chao’s status as one of the greatest contemporary jewellery artists, setting new records at international auctions and making hers a coveted name among collectors. But perhaps most significantly, she has earned recognition as an Asian artist who successfully bridges Eastern aesthetics with Western artistry.
2023 Black Label Masterpiece II Pamir Brooch
20th Anniversary Collection Leaf Brooch
20th Anniversary Collection Feather Brooch
20th Anniversary Collection Dragonfly Brooch
“I believe aesthetics and craftsmanship speak beyond culture,” Chao says. “We have to, first and foremost, excel in our vision and execute it with uncompromising precision. When the work achieves this level of excellence, it transcends cultural boundaries and speaks a universal language of beauty.”
As you experience the exhibition, it is clear that, while nature remains a central theme in Chao’s work, her focus has shifted toward capturing the ethereal lightness of her subjects: leaves, feathers and dragonflies. The 20th anniversary collection features these three subjects, exemplifying her design evolution through elevated metalwork and organic materials such as ox horn and resin. Though a feather brooch might appear similar to a previous creation, closer inspection reveals an ingenious transformation—the body rotates 180 degrees, achieving a sense of movement and curves that appears effortless yet profound.
“In my younger days, I was always trying to prove myself,” reflects Chao. “Now I seek to achieve more impact with less. True masters express profound concepts with just the right touch. It’s also, I suppose, a confidence that comes from experience.”
2011 Black Label Masterpiece Stag Brooch
In a nearby display case, The 2011 Black Label Masterpiece Stag brooch, an aesthetic departure from all the other works shown, stands as the sole creative collaboration between Chao and her late father. Like many father-daughter relationships in Asian culture, their affection was conveyed through unspoken gestures. The abstract depiction of the deer, with its suggested motion of running wild, reveals Chao’s father’s silent wish for his daughter to soar to great heights—something she undeniably has achieved.
“It does get lonely sometimes, when you’re the only one who can see the possibilities,” says Chao. “But when I believe in something, there’s hardly anyone who can change my mind. And I only know how to stay true to my vision. I don't know how to do it otherwise.”
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