Perfumer Antonin Khalifé continues the Henry Jacques legacy of creating scents that live beyond the bottle

The Henry Jacques maison is known for the exclusivity of their scents and the rarity of their ingredients, steeped in the grand tradition of French haute parfumerie. The maison was founded in 1975 by Henry Cremona, at first creating bespoke fragrances only for private clients, crafting each fragrance—as they continue to do today—from rare and refined natural ingredients. Today the maison boasts a library of over 3,000 unique scents.

This year Henry Jacques releases a new collection, one that is seemingly simple, but never one-note. The ‘Il y Avait un Jardin’ collection is rooted in fresh, ripe garden elements: sun-ripened citrus, leaves crushed between the fingers, fragrant blossoms carried on the evening air. From these simple, nostalgic scents, the team at Henry Jacques have crafted a collection of essential fragrances that feel instantly familiar. Read also: A Perfumer’s Garden: Inside the exclusive maison Henry Jacques in Paris, France

We speak to Antonin Khalifé, Henry Jacques’ in-house perfumer and nose, and grandson of the maison’s founder, about how the maison continues to bring new stories to the world of scent. Khalifé has grown up surrounded by scent and sensitivity to perfumery, and after extensive perfume studies, has joined the Henry Jacques bespoke creation team.

Fresh citrus features heavily in Henry Jacques’ ‘Il Y Avait Un Jardin’

As a perfumer involved in bridging tradition and innovation, how did the development process for this collection balance Henry Jacques’ heritage with the desire to offer a fresh perspective?

The balance between tradition and innovation is indeed very subtle. Henry Jacques’ heritage is at the heart of this collection. These were perfumes created by my grandparents many years ago and kept for our personal use so far. They are new to the world, yet part of my family for three generations now. However, as a Henry Jacques perfumer, keeping my curiosity alive and never being fully satisfied with our creations is a must. I had the opportunity to meet a Calabrian family who produce some of the finest citruses in the world. The olfactive authenticity of these raw materials surprised us all, and I decided to use them to enhance the uniqueness of these perfumes.

Could you elaborate on the process of selecting and working with high-quality raw materials?

Looking for new raw materials is a never-ending process. It goes beyond only adding new raw materials we didn’t have at the laboratory before. It's integral to the creation process to keep researching even for the ingredients we already have, but from new locations. Every single natural ingredient will develop a slightly different smell depending on where it comes from.

Henry Jacques’ ‘Il Y Avait Un Jardin’ is seemingly simple, but never one-note

Henry Jacques is known for the idea that its fragrances are ‘alive’. How does the development process ensure this ‘living’ quality and encourage a deeper, more personal connection for the wearer?

Scientifically, molecules present in all natural ingredients interact when blended, and therefore the smell of these ingredients evolve, like a fine wine. This requires a certain anticipation from us, which I like to call the ‘olfactive trajectory’ of each of our perfumes. Anyone wearing a Henry Jacques perfume will then have the pleasure to observe the evolution of their perfume throughout time in their flacon.

Discovering the final smell of the perfume after its application on each person’s skin is also part of the Henry Jacques journey, emphasising the ‘live’ identity of our perfumes. It’s like watching a beautiful movie, or reading a book. Continuous smelling of our perfumes to observe their evolution is something we encourage as it creates a very personal approach for our dear clients.

Beyond the individual notes, Henry Jacques fragrances often evoke memories and tell stories. What specific techniques or considerations are employed during the development phase to ensure these emotional and narrative elements are effectively captured and conveyed through the scent?

As a Henry Jacques perfumer, it is a must for me to create perfumes which offer enough complexity, layers, and creative audacity to give people an opportunity to create their own interpretation, memories, and travel in time. Therefore, it is important for me to add my signature touch to the perfumes, which is composed of my favourite raw materials, personal ‘bouquet’ notes which are balanced and recognisable yet with a little touch of surprise.

This surprise is noticeable from the first smell on the face of the wearer, and this is extremely important to me, because it is a trigger to create memories, and a stepping stone to building a personal relationship with the perfume.

Henry Jacques’ ‘Il Y Avait Un Jardin’ draws on the familiar, nostalgic scents of a garden

How do you personally contribute to maintaining the distinct and unique qualities of Henry Jacques fragrances during the development process?

Distinct and unique describes the approach I must have towards my creations for bespoke creations, and new collections. Indeed, HJ perfumes are recognisable and naturally stand apart from any other fragrances. There is therefore a guiding thread that I wish to follow, yet with a certain level of innovation and surprise to keep the curiosity of our dear clients alive. It is a very delicate balance which requires a lot of passion, patience, and that you can’t learn anywhere else but in the Henry Jacques Laboratory.

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