Inside Chopard’s Insofu high jewellery collection with a record-breaking Zambian emerald and ethical gold

In recent years, sourcing emeralds of significant size—stones exceeding even 3 or 4 carats—and quality has become increasingly challenging. That’s why the unveiling of Chopard’s Insofu Collection feels like a seismic event in the world of high jewellery. But what sets this collection even further apart is its deep commitment to sustainability. By acquiring a rough emerald weighing 6,225 carats, named “Insofu” after the word for “elephant” in the Bemba language of northeastern Zambia, Chopard has taken control of the entire journey, from mine to finished jewel.

This direct sourcing guarantees traceability, allows for responsible mining practices through the maison’s collaboration with gem-mining firm Gemfields and supports education, healthcare and conservation projects in Zambia.

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Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director made the Insofu high jewellery collection with a 6,225-carat Zambian emerald (Photo: courtesy of Chopard)

Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, says, “In every stone lies a story, and my role is to listen and honour the natural magic they carry as treasures from the Earth.” Unlike diamonds, for which technology can predict the yield of usable stones with relative accuracy, emeralds are notoriously fickle. Their value is unlocked only through the delicate process of cutting, which can lead to catastrophic fractures that render precious parts of the raw stone unusable.

Chopard entrusted skilled gem-cutters to study the Insofu emerald for a year and decide how best to cut it. The result: 850 carats of quality emeralds from this one stone. The first parure from the Insofu collection was released during Oscars week 2024 in collaboration with Julia Roberts, composed of a necklace, a pair of earrings and a ring.

Now, Chopard has unveiled a new chapter of high jewellery featuring 15 pieces: five pairs of earrings, four necklaces, three rings, a bracelet and a jewellery watch. The collection, crafted from 100 per cent ethical gold, diamonds, pink sapphires and pearls, draws inspiration from nature’s organic forms, abstract art and the art deco era.

The necklaces are particularly worthy of closer inspection. A diamond choker is completed by a vibrant 2.50-carat, square-cut emerald; a second necklace is festooned with pink sapphires and emeralds, with a 15.53-carat octagonal emerald at its heart. There’s a long string of interlaced emeralds, pearls and diamonds designed to cascade down the torso, while a sautoir of pink pearls adds a touch of softness to this parure.

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Insofu collection ring (Photo: courtesy of Chopard)

Various emeralds cut out of the 6,225-carat Zambian emerald (Photo: courtesy of Chopard)

Chopard, which has been using 100 per cent ethical gold in all its jewellery and watches since 2018, further proves its commitment to traceability through its use of the Provenance Proof Emerald Paternity Test developed by Gübelin Gem Lab, a century-old institution used by many houses to determine authenticity of gemstones. Scheufele explains, “Traceability is more than a technical advancement; it is an ethical achievement. The Insofu Collection reflects our belief that true beauty results from a genuine commitment to society and ethical practices.”

Beyond traceability, Chopard’s collaboration with Gemfields and its support of community and conservation projects in Zambia shows a holistic approach to ethical luxury. The house has pledged to donate part of the profits to Elephant Family, an NGO established to protect Asian elephants and their natural habitats from extinction.

Scheufele says, “The final reveal of the Insofu Collection is a moment I have long awaited, one that could only be realised by aligning it with a meaningful cause to protect wildlife and nature—passions that have been close to my heart for many years.”

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