Meet Tanaka Daisuke, the Japanese designer infusing anime culture into romantic garments

In a world where fashion often blurs the lines between reality and fantasy, Japanese designer Tanaka Daisuke is emerging as a masterful storyteller. Known for his ethereal and imaginative designs and for using pearls, tulle and lace to create armour-like embellishments on romantic silhouettes, Daisuke graduated from Osaka Bunka Fashion College and quickly made his mark on the industry. After debuting his eponymous label Tanakadaisuke in 2021, he wowed audiences with his inaugural runway show at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo, where he showed his autumn-winter 2022 collection.

Tanaka’s journey has been anything but conventional. Launching his brand during the pandemic, his early experiences as a costume designer and embroidery artist shaped his meticulous approach to detail, allowing him to infuse his collections with a sense of whimsy and depth. Last autumn, Tanaka travelled to Hong Kong to exhibit as one of the 10 Asian Designers to Watch identified by Fashion Asia Hong Kong, and recently has dressed K-pop sensation Seventeen and Japanese actress Ai Hashimoto on the red carpet. As he prepared for his SS25 collection, Cloaked in Mystery, the designer spoke to Tatler about exploring the boundaries of imagination in fashion.

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A dress from the Tanakadaisuke Cloaked in Mystery collection (Photo: Tanakadaisuke)

How has your upbringing influenced your designs?I believe I am particularly influenced by Japanese anime culture. The exaggerated expressions unique to anime have impacted my creations in various ways, such as making flat objects appear three-dimensional or exaggerating the sense of gloss.

What led you to focus on embroidery in your designs?I admired Givenchy during the Riccardo Tisci era. Since I was naturally skilled with my hands, I pursued precision and beauty, [and expressed this in] the form of embroidery.

Details from the Tanakadaisuke Cloaked in Mystery collection (Photo: Tanaka Daisuke)

Details from the Tanakadaisuke Cloaked in Mystery collection (Photo: Tanaka Daisuke)

You worked as a costume designer before launching your own brand; what are the similarities and differences in your design approach between creating for a performer and designing for your own brand?For costume design, I design with the wearer and background already decided. I also research what the person wants to express or communicate; from there, I narrow the focus from the larger framework. As for designing for my brand, I have a passion for details, so I start by creating the details I want to express, then guide the viewer’s attention to the whole creation and explore the appropriate theme that fits.

What is your creative process?It takes time to create the details each season, but once that’s done, I consider the pieces, the silhouette of the clothes and the theme. I then continue to refine the silhouettes, pieces and details, repeating this process during production.

Fashion today can range from very practical, quiet luxury to dreamlike couture. Where on this spectrum do your designs fall?I personally enjoy expressions similar to couture, but I also like casual wear. With Tanakadaisuke, I express both, and I believe that duality defines the brand.

Details from the Tanakadaisuke Cloaked in Mystery collection (Photo: Tanaka Daisuke)

Details from the Tanakadaisuke Cloaked in Mystery collection (Photo: Tanaka Daisuke)

Tell us about your SS25 collection.Cloaked In Mystery is inspired by the mystery of the deep sea and seeks to explore both fantasy and realism. The use of distinctive bijoux is elevated with intricate embroidery, applying them onto veils as a new expression. After experiencing a sense of fantasy, romanticism and realism during the autumn-winter 2024 exhibition in Paris, I felt a deep connection to these elements. I sought to exaggerate these aspects and express them within the collection, creating something that resonated personally with me.

What support systems or resources do you think are crucial for young designers tryingto establish themselves in the industry?I had the desire to start my own brand, but I didn’t have the knowledge or business acumen. It would be great if there were more opportunities to meet partners who could provide that support.

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