The Midas Touch: Olivier Rousteing blends the worlds of haute couture and rare spirits with Johnnie Walker Vault

Spring, summer, autumn, winter … fashion, like life, moves in eternal seasons, each carrying its own poetry of renewal and reflection. It is a rhythm as old as time, yet within this cyclical dance, there are certain visionaries who manage to reinvent its very cadence. Olivier Rousteing, the industry‑redefining “Wonder Boy” of fashion and the creative director of Balmain, is such a force—a designer who renders each collection not merely a set of garments meant for the season, but also an act of transformation.

The Tatler team had the pleasure of working with Rousteing in New York to mark a groundbreaking collaboration—one that brings together the worlds of haute couture and rare spirits. We went into the interview planning to explore a story rooted in creation and craftsmanship. These are, after all, the common threads that string through his life’s work and his latest feat as the first cultural collaborator of Johnnie Walker Vault—not just designing beautiful limited‑edition bottles for the Couture Expression collection, each detail imbued with personal meaning, but also co‑crafting each of the four rare whisky blends that make up the collection. What we came away with, however, was a narrative far more robust, warm and complex. We uncovered facets that reflect Rousteing’s philosophies around resilience, metamorphosis and having the courage to bloom against all odds—and how his evolution has led him to orchestrate a symphony of seasons that extends far beyond the fashion runways.

Olivier Rousteing on the cover of Tatler Singapore’s July 2025 issue

The making of a maximalist

Rousteing’s journey to the pinnacle of fashion was never guaranteed. Adopted as a child and raised in Bordeaux by loving parents, he entered the fashion world without the traditional pedigree that often opens doors in Paris. His path was forged through raw talent, relentless determination, and an innate understanding that fashion can be a vehicle for storytelling and social change. When he joined Balmain in 2009 as the head of womenswear design and two years later became creative director of the brand during his mid-twenties, Rousteing brought something revolutionary to the storied French house: a vision that celebrated diversity and not just embraced maximalism, but also refused to apologise for its boldness. His designs— structured blazers with military precision, embellished gowns that commanded attention, silhouettes that celebrated the female form in all its glory—became armour for a generation seeking to express its power and individuality.

“I love the tension [of ] modern maximalism,” Rousteing offers, his eyes lighting up as he discusses his aesthetic philosophy. “I’m French, and Paris is known for the Eiffel Tower that touches the sky; for the Palace of Versailles, where everything is gold; for the Jardin des Tuileries, a historical imperial playground between the Louvre Museum and Place de la Concorde.” This embrace of French maximalism—what he calls his “civic duty”—has become a signature of his. Where others might see ostentation, sartorial sculptures or haute couture, Rousteing sees heritage. “I wouldn’t say I’m a maximalist; I’d just say this is who I am and what I represent. This is the beauty of being French—it’s to shine around the world,” he declares, dressed in a black and gold ensemble he created for the Met Gala, which we got a preview of two days prior during our shoot.

More than just clothes, Rousteing’s creations are statements of measured defiance in an industry that, to a certain extent, is resistant to change. Each of his collections for Balmain tells a story of strength through adversity, of beauty born from struggle, of tradition reimagined for a new generation—proving that French fashion can be both reverent of its past yet revolutionary in its future. Under his leadership, Balmain has evolved from a respected heritage brand into a cultural phenomenon, dressing everyone from Beyoncé to the Kardashians, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid. These high‑profile faces are just the tip of a wider community of both women and men who embrace the brand’s vision, spirit and design aesthetic, coined the “Balmain Army” by Rousteing.

“Everybody thinks that I built my Balmain army,” Rousteing acknowledges. “While, yes, I did and called it that, it was Monsieur Pierre Balmain who, in the 1960s, first had the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Queen Sirikit of Thailand, Audrey Hepburn and Josephine Baker by his side.” This historical perspective reveals Rousteing’s deeper understanding of fashion legacy. Rather than revolutionary destruction, he practises reinvention—taking the codes of the past and reinterpreting them for contemporary culture. “What I’m doing is a repetition, but still again being the witness of my time,” he explains.

Wings of transformation

Beneath all that glamour, though, lies a deeper narrative of resilience. Rousteing has been open about his struggles with identity, his search for his biological roots and the personal trauma that shaped his world view. In 2020, a devastating accident left him with severe burns, testing not only his physical recovery, but also his creative spirit. “I got burned five years ago during Covid‑19,” he shares. “And I have to say that it was a really long process for me to accept the way that I was. Because when you get burned, you don’t know if you’re ever going to be able to feel or look like you did before, so you need to accept your scars the way that they are—and learn from them.”

The healing process taught him profound lessons about resilience and self‑acceptance. “I remember crying with my doctor, and I said it was because I always thought I was a superhero,” Rousteing recalls. “You always feel like such things can happen to others but never to you—but I was wrong. Looking back, my doctor’s response played a key role in shifting my perspective. He said to me: ‘All superheroes have scars.’”

Read more: Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing reveals his touching burns recovery journey

That accident became a catalyst for a profound shift in Rousteing’s mental approach to life and creativity—instilling a new depth to his later collections as well as his collaboration with Johnnie Walker Vault. Like a “phoenix rising from the ashes”, he says, he emerged from the setback stronger, more focused, and more committed to his vision of fashion as both art and activism. “After the accident, I realised that maybe I had been merely surviving, not living, and made conscious efforts to be more present and to enjoy every single moment in life, no matter how big or small,” he shares.

This project with Johnnie Walker Vault also highlights Rousteing’s philosophy to both fashion and life, which he shares is defined by what he calls “duality”—the embrace of seemingly contradictory forces

This hard‑earned wisdom informed his most ambitious venture outside of fashion yet: the Couture Expression whisky collection, his collaborative project with Johnnie Walker Vault as its first cultural partner. “When I first stepped into the world of whisky,” Rousteing reflects, “I was struck by how similar the creative process is to designing a collection. You’re working with heritage, with tradition, but you’re also trying to create something that speaks to this moment, to this generation.”

Indeed, the parallels between fashion design and whisky craftsmanship, as Rousteing would later discover while working with Johnnie Walker’s master blender Emma Walker, run deeper than beauty, deeper than an understanding of tradition coupled with the courage to innovate. Both demand patience—the patience to let ideas mature, to allow processes to unfold naturally, and to trust in the alchemy of time and skill. Both also require an understanding of how different components interact with and enhance one another, as well as a balancing of multiple elements to create harmony. Integral to both, too, is the confidence to trust one’s instincts whilst respecting traditional techniques. The collaboration began with an unexpected question from Walker. “The first question that she asked me was, ‘If you create a blend, what would be the song?’” Rousteing recalls. “I answered, ‘Michael Jackson’s They Don’t Care about Us’—which was a lot of drums, a lot of passion and a lot of fights. She knew exactly what I meant.” This musical metaphor became the foundation for the duo’s creative process. “What I understood was that we wanted to create the same symphony, but she had the instruments that I didn’t have,” he explains. “I told her that this song needs to be pop, and I bring those ingredients.”

The bottles in this collection were designed by Rousteing and described as “couture for spirits”

The couture expression

The fruit of that partnership, the Couture Expression collection, was launched this May, marking the inaugural release from Johnnie Walker Vault—a global luxury platform by leading spirits brand Johnnie Walker that showcases its blending artistry through bespoke creations, luxurious experiences and creative collaborations. Comprising four blends named after the seasons, each released in a limited batch of only 25 bottles worldwide, it marries Rousteing’s aesthetic vision with the rarefied world of collectible spirits.

While each of the expressions represents a different emotional journey, all share the same luxurious “heart” featuring ghost whiskies from Brora and Port Dundas. This was then layered with other rare elixirs from the Johnnie Walker Vault’s library of 500 rare, aged and ghost whiskies to create distinct blends that capture the essence of the seasons they are named after. With flavours of orchard fruits and wildflowers, the Spring blend, for instance, embodies hope and new beginnings. The Summer expression, meanwhile, echoes the energetic vibe of its namesake season with tropical fruity notes from a selection of rare whiskies including an experimental Cardhu Wine Cask Finish, while Fall, with its rich, warm layers of Teaninich chocolate malt and smoke from the 1978 Port Ellen, perfectly mirrors the introspection of the season. With its smoky peat and robust character, the Winter blend reflects the comfort of gathering around a fireplace.

The bottles themselves, designed by Rousteing and described as “couture for spirits”, are also works of art, as considered as the liquid within. Every Baccarat crystal decanter is draped in silk‑like metal in one of four gleaming hues, each representing a season. Crowning the bottle is a winged stopper: a symbol of freedom, resilience and Rousteing’s own journey of renewal. “Those wings are about freedom—rising from the ashes, and the sky’s the limit,” he says. “I was really given the freedom to push boundaries with the bottle design, using the couture technique of drapé to capture the seasons in rose gold, silver, gold and metallic black. I wanted to create a structured armour reflecting strength and perseverance, but for it to be swathed like silk to bring softness and reveal the beautiful liquid inside”.

Rousteing lent his creative eye to the packaging as well, incorporating elements from his fashion archives and creating a cohesive aesthetic that bridges his two worlds. For those lucky enough to get their hands on a full set, each decanter comes in a bespoke case that opens like a fashion trunk, revealing the Baccarat decanter and custom-designed armour and stopper that echo Rousteing’s distinctive style.

In an era where luxury increasingly values authenticity and personal connection, the Couture Expression collection stands apart for its integrity and artistic conviction. Representing more than a successful collaboration between two visionaries from different worlds, it sets a new standard for creative partnerships, and is a testament to the possibilities that emerge when creative boundaries are challenged and disciplines intersect.

This project with Johnnie Walker Vault also highlights Rousteing’s philosophy to both fashion and life, which he shares is defined by what he calls “duality”—the embrace of seemingly contradictory forces

The duality of strength

This project with Johnnie Walker Vault also highlights Rousteing’s philosophy to both fashion and life, which he shares is defined by what he calls “duality”—the embrace of seemingly contradictory forces. “I love duality. I love the yin and the yang,” he explains. “There is no black without white, there is no white without black … You cannot understand the beauty of life if you don’t understand the cruelty of it.”

This approach manifests in his designs that project strength whilst maintaining elegance—qualities his Balmain Army also embodies. “[Members of my] Balmain army are Amazons and are really strong,” he says. “Those women—or men—are confident; they fight for a better world and have a lot of love to give.” The duality extends to his personal life as well. Despite his public persona as a confident fashion icon, Rousteing admits to being an introvert by nature. “People see me [as an outgoing] celebrity in [the fashion world, but] I’m actually really shy,” he lets on, “so this is my real duality. But there’s something that is for sure: I’m tough. I have tough skin and will not let anybody put me down.”

His sanctuary remains his home, where he feels most powerful and free. “I like to sketch all alone—when I feel safest to be in my own power,” he reveals. When quizzed on what makes his ideal setting for this, he shares: “I play with music, light a candle, take my pen and design. I do this in my kitchen, living room, office—in my comfort zones, I can sketch forever. That’s where I dream.” It is this creative process of solitude that reveals a deeply mindful practice, one that he does with genuine joy.

Of legacy and more

As Rousteing approaches his 40th birthday and his 15th year at Balmain, questions about legacy naturally arise. For someone who began his career so young, the concept of lasting impact has always been central to his vision. “Not knowing exactly where I come from, the best way for me to survive is [to leave] an impact, a legacy,” he says candidly. “I may not know where I come from, but at least I know where I’m going, and I will leave a mark on this earth.”

And while he does not yet have an exact end goal of what his legacy will be, considering the impact he has already made—perhaps best epitomised by the very presence of the Balmain Army—one could say he is very well headed in the right direction, with the Johnnie Walker Vault collaboration representing a new chapter in his legacy‑building endeavour. As he explains, “I want people to remember that out of whisky, you can create couture and everlasting beauty.”

In fact, it is this drive for permanence that influences every project Rousteing undertakes. “I’m always thinking, yes, we see the power now, but in 200 years, what will [people] remember,” he muses. “The beauty of fashion is that everything goes fast. But everybody gets bored … So the most important thing in fashion is not to be trendy; it is to be timeless.”

As fashion continues to evolve in an increasingly digital and democratised world, Rousteing remains committed to his core philosophy: confidence without compromise. “What I’m doing is about confidence; feeling free to be who you want to be,” he states. “What is really maximalist about me is not about the bling of it; it’s about the non‑compromise and being unapologetic about it.”

This stance has served him well throughout his career, from his early days facing establishment scepticism to his current position as one of fashion’s most influential voices. “I never felt like an outsider, but people made me feel like one,” he says. “My intentions were never to defy, but to make things happen. I’m aware that I changed the fashion industry in my own way and I’m proud of it. So now, I’m more gentle with myself. I don’t have to always be a fighter, and I let myself be softer.”

As our conversation draws to a close, Rousteing reflects on the journey that brought him from a little boy from Bordeaux to the pinnacles of global fashion and luxury. “Until I’m not bored of this, I’ll continue doing it,” he says when asked about his future plans. “I won’t survive if I don’t create. There are two kinds of designers: those who say, ‘I want to do one collection a year’ or ‘Give me the time’, and then there’s the other—me—who says, ‘Give me more, and I’ll give you more’.”

Whether through the structured grandeur of a Balmain gown or the liquid poetry of a rare whisky blend, Rousteing’s message remains constant: embrace who you are, honour where you come from and never apologise for reaching for the sky. Like his couture creations, the Couture Expression collection stands as more than a luxury product—it is a manifesto for creative courage, a celebration of craftsmanship in all its forms, and a reminder that the most beautiful creations emerge when we dare to rise from our own ashes.

And so Rousteing’s story continues: an endless cycle of creation, transformation and transcendence— season after season, in gold.

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