Sapphire meets precision: Richard Mille’s RM 75-01 makes transparency a luxury
We’ve all witnessed how innovation in watchmaking often means adding yet another complication to an already crowded dial. Thankfully, Richard Mille has taken a different tack with its latest creation—the RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon Sapphire. Beyond its sapphire-cased exterior, the RM 75-01 represents something more significant: a movement specifically conceived for sapphire housing rather than simply transplanted into it. The distinction might seem subtle but, as we know, in watchmaking, less is (almost always) more.
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The Richard Mille RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon in lilac sapphire (Photo: courtesy of Richard Mille)
Available in three expressions—two combining clear and coloured sapphire in limited runs of ten pieces each, and a third in pure clear sapphire limited to 15 pieces— the collection draws inspiration from water’s dual nature: both fluid and architectural. The aquatic theme carries through each variation in the form of the crystal- clear nature of the sapphire and the wave-like case, as well as the sea-green rubber strap available with the clear sapphire model.
What’s striking about the RM 75-01 is how it resolves contradictions. The calibre, after which the watch is named, is simultaneously minimalist and complex, and features a solid sapphire case measuring a hardness of nine on the Mohs scale. The movement architecture borrows from gothic cathedrals, with a red gold flange mimicking ribbed vaults supported by satin-polished titanium pillars, yet maintains and ergonomic lightness
The “flying” elements, both tourbillon and barrel, hover without upper bridges to create a suspended animation effect. This architectural sleight-of-hand required a triangular baseplate structure that maintains rigidity while appearing delicate.
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The Richard Mille RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon in clear sapphire (Photo: courtesy of Richard Mille)
But the most challenging part of putting this watch together is manufacturing the sapphire cases. Each tripartite sapphire housing demands over 1,000 hours of work, starting with raw blocks weighing dozens of kilograms. The coloured versions present even greater challenges, requiring precise temperature control during crystal growth to achieve consistent hues without bubbles or irregularities.
What makes the RM 75-01 significant beyond its technical specifications is how it embodies Richard Mille’s philosophical approach. The brand has always existed at the intersection of traditional craftsmanship and futuristic material science. We love that the RM 75-01 tells its story through absence as much as presence; through what’s revealed rather than what’s concealed.
As the watch industry continues its recalibration through a rough economic rollercoaster, pieces like the RM 75-01 suggest a possible future direction: fewer but more meaningful creations through innovative use of materials.
Whether this approach will influence the broader market remains to be seen, but Richard Mille has once again demonstrated why it remains at the vanguard of contemporary haute horlogerie: this time, by making transparency itself a luxury.
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