Meet the Juntae Kim, the Korean designer at the forefront of a transformative genderless fashion movement

Seoul-based designer Juntae Kim stands at the forefront of a transformative fashion movement. Founded in 2022, his namesake gender-fluid brand evolved quickly from dressing Dua Lipa after graduation to challenging conventional notions of masculinity and femininity, and advocating for a new era of self-expression. A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins MA Fashion course in 2022, Kim garnered attention as a semi-finalist for the 2023 LVMH Prize. His brand embodies a philosophy of “unravelling binary constructions”, with gender-fluid designs that transcend traditional menswear and womenswear.

Drawing inspiration from his upbringing in South Korea and six years of study in the UK, Kim intertwines an east-west vibe with a punk attitude that pays homage to icons like Vivienne Westwood. He was recognised by Fashion Asia Hong Kong as one of the 10 Asian Designers to Watch in 2024 and showcased his designs at the city’s Clockenflap music festival at the end of November. His provocative, kitschy approach merging tailoring, sportswear and elements of futurism has attracted collaborations with industry giants. These include working on exclusive customisations, with Adidas for a range released at art fair Frieze Seoul 2024 and Salomon on pieces unveiled as part of his spring-summer 2025 collection. This collection, New Romantics, serves as Kim’s manifesto and celebrates Westwood’s legacy while drawing inspiration from the silhouettes and portraiture of the 17th and 19th centuries.

As he prepared for his autumn-winter 2025 collection, Kim chatted to us about fluidity of style and celebrating the nuances of personal identity.

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Juntae Kim’s spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Juntae Kim)

Tell us about your journey to becoming a fashion designer.When I was in high school, I developed a passion for reworking clothes on my own. It started as a hobby but soon grew into a deeper interest—I wanted to create the kinds of clothes I dreamt of wearing. This passion led me to study fashion design and, eventually, I launched my own brand that reflects my taste. Having grown up and studied in Korea before spending six years

studying in the UK, my designs naturally merge eastern and western aesthetics. This blend of influences allows my work to embody a unique balance of conservatism and creativity.

What inspired your non-binary approach to design?Dividing clothing into menswear and womenswear is no longer meaningful. I studied womenswear in Korea and menswear in the UK. Through the course of my studies and research, I began to [envision] a new genre of clothing and aesthetics that is not tied to any specific gender.

Using the concepts of femininity and masculinity as nuanced expressions of style, we aim for our clothing to offer a range of expressions. We want to provide options that allow individuals to embrace a softer, more fluid aesthetic, regardless of gender, and to explore bold, assertive styles that reflect their personal identity.

Our designs are intentionally crafted to be neither overtly masculine nor feminine, reflecting our core design philosophy. We’ve moved from focusing solely on the beauty of fitted garments to blending that elegance with practicality and comfort, all while preserving the silhouette.

What is your creative process like?I am drawn to keywords like preppy, punk, hippie, freedom and romance. Both the students’ longing for freedom in [1989 film] Dead Poets Society and Vivienne Westwood’s subversive messages to society ultimately revolve around the word “freedom”. I enjoy taking these keywords or themes, along with historical references [and occasionally references to past collections] and applying them to traditional clothing to craft a new aesthetic. For example, for the signature denim jackets, I started by juxtaposing Westwood’s legendary denim pieces, the preppy colour palettes and styling of the protagonists in Dead Poets Society, and our own historical pattern-cutting techniques. Following this fun little process, [each season] I can create something that is exciting and unlike anything seen before.

Kim’s design process (Photo: courtesy of Juntae Kim)

How do you strike a balance between heritage and innovation?It’s simple: it’s about visually expressing a heritage-inspired aesthetic using modern techniques, materials and trimmings. Techniques like laser-cutting or seam-sealing tape are great examples of how contemporary technology can be used to reinterpret traditional textiles and iconic details. The key, however, is ensuring that the final result doesn’t look old or overly historical—it must feel fresh, modern and relevant.

You recently custom-made a feathered outfit for Ty Dolla $ign. Are you looking to develop more of a demi-couture line?The “1 OF 1” custom project is an exciting and forward-thinking business model for Juntae Kim. While the Paris collections often require balancing creativity with commercial considerations, custom projects offer the perfect outlet to push boundaries and showcase the brand’s bold, provocative aesthetic. They provide a unique opportunity to connect with a wider audience through truly one-of-a-kind designs. With growing demand from K-pop stars and other global artists and celebrities, our team is currently creating and crafting customised stage outfits that highlight the full creative spirit of Juntae Kim.

What was the thinking behind your recent AW25 collection?The AW25 collection serves as a retrospective, reflecting on the seven collections that have shaped Juntae Kim since its launch. It incorporates signature details from past designs, reimagined with fresh silhouettes while embodying the brand’s boldest, most funky and kitschy aesthetic yet. True to its spirit, the collection once again presents Juntae Kim’s vision of “new romance”, pushing creative boundaries and redefining modern fashion.

Juntae Kim's spring-summer 2025 collection (Photo: courtesy of Juntae Kim)

What opportunities and challenges have you encountered while running your business? How have these experiences shaped your approach to design and entrepreneurship?I am a designer and at the same time a CEO for my brand—I find myself constantly juggling design and sales, especially since I don’t have a dedicated operations team yet. Whether I’m at the pattern table or my working desk, I wrestle daily with finding the balance between creativity and commercial success. I've experienced the bittersweet reality of seeing a collection I poured my heart into fall short in sales, while another, less personal collection exceeded expectations. It's been a humbling lesson that effort doesn't always translate directly to revenue.

Looking ahead to this year and the next, my focus is on developing more diverse business models outside of the Paris collection. Expanding revenue streams will not only help sustain but also drive the growth of the brand, ensuring its long-term success.

How do you envision the future of genderless fashion?The terms “genderless” and “gender-fluid”, which are currently trending, will likely lose their significance in the future, as so many brands are already focusing on them. Juntae Kim aims to go beyond just blurring the lines between menswear and womenswear. The ultimate goal is to present designs that exist in a state of ambiguity—where it’s not immediately clear whether a piece is for men or women, embracing a truly fluid approach to fashion.

What’s next for Juntae Kim?In Korea, we are preparing for an official collaboration with a global leather brand, and internationally, we are currently working on an official collaboration with a global shoe brand. We plan to launch the products in 2025. Additionally, this year, we will be opening the first Juntae Kim flagship store and preparing for a presentation in Paris. I’m excited for what’s ahead.

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