How sustainable pearl farming is quietly saving our oceans and transforming communities

Audrey Hepburn, draped in layers of pearls, gazing into the window of Tiffany & Co in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, is one of the most famous images in cinematic history. Yet the gems are far more than symbols of sophistication—they are emerging as champions of sustainability and ocean conservation; a rare luxury that gives back to the planet.

Unlike other common jewellery elements such as diamonds or gold, which require invasive mining practices that scar landscapes through processes that can create vast amounts of carbon dioxide, pearls are extracted from their molluscs through a process that is remarkably harmonious with nature.

This low-impact production has been quantified in studies such as one published in an industry journal called Resources (2023),which found that producing one kilogramme of pearls generates just 4.98kg of carbon dioxide equivalent—an environmental footprint dramatically smaller than gold production, which creates as much as 16,300kg per kilogramme of metal produced. But what makes pearl farming unique is its symbiotic relationship with marine ecosystems. Healthy oysters produce high-quality pearls, and healthy oysters require clean water. Pearl farmers therefore have a vested interest in maintaining pristine marine environments, creating a natural incentive for environmental stewardship.

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Doug Woodring (Photo: courtesy of Doug Woodring)

Doug Woodring, founder and managing director of Hong Kong non-profit organisation Ocean Recovery Alliance, explains, “If you’re going to be creating something from the ocean, whether that is food or a pearl, you obviously would want it to be clean and of the highest grade and quality. So, it makes sense that anyone who is [running] a business [based on products] from the ocean … [would ensure] that the water they’re using is as clean as it can be. It’s simply good business.”

Pearl farms often act as de facto marine protected areas (MPAs), as fishing is restricted so biodiversity flourishes—a beautiful example of synergy in nature. In French Polynesia, for example, pearl farms have been shown to increase fish populations by providing habitats for marine life. Oysters themselves are natural water filters; a single oyster can filter up to about 200 litres of water per day, removing pollutants like nitrogen and phosphorus while improving water clarity.

David Wong (Photo: courtesy of David Wong)

We met David Wong, general manager of Hong Kong Pearl Cultivation Association and project director of Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory, at an event celebrating L’École Asia Pacific, School of Jewelry Arts’s new course, Pearls: History, Science and Legends.

He says that this filtration process is more than just a fortunate byproduct. Both of Wong’s roles are to do with improving the pearl industry. The Pearl Cultivation Association focuses on reviving and promoting pearl farming in Hong Kong, combining sustainable cultivation methods with educational initiatives to highlight the ecological benefits of pearl oysters. Meanwhile, Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory works to enhance transparency in the industry—more on that later. Wong explains, “Pearl oysters, like all oysters, filter water as part of their daily activity, consuming the contents in the water, primarily algae. Through photosynthesis, algae takes in carbon dioxide. Oysters then ingest the algae, and the carbon content becomes part of the shell-growing process, as shells and pearls are mainly composed of calcium carbonate,” he says. “After the pearl oysters die, they decompose and become part of the natural environment, contributing to carbon sequestration. A single oyster filters approximately 150 to 200 litres of water per day.”

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Life of a cultured pearl (Photo: courtesy of L’École Asia Pacific, School of Jewelry Arts)

For Mirabel Rosar, founder of Philippines-based Arao fine jewellery, these processes form an important part of her ethical, environment-first approach. “Pearl oysters remove nitrogen from seawater during filtration, which helps the oysters grow and purifies the surrounding environment. In turn, this leads to healthier marine life and increased biodiversity. I go directly to the source in Palawan, Philippines, which is one of the most pristine areas where pearl farming thrives.”

Pearls’ natural filtering system isn’t just an ecological bonus—it’s essential for pearl quality. The cleaner the water, the better thenacre, the iridescent coating that forms the pearl; in other words, environmental health is directly tied to the economic success of the industry. “Luxury pearl jewellery has played a big role in ocean conservation and will continue to do so, because [a clean environment] is fundamental to sustainable pearl farming,” Rosar says. “Most of the large pearl farm owners have comprehensive programmes to restore the environment and protect marine life, and will continue to do so in the future.”

Rosar’s deep connection to the ocean has been a lifelong journey, evolving from childhood curiosity to a profound respect for marine ecosystems. “I always loved the beach even as a little girl, but I only fell in love with the sea when I started to surf 22 years ago,” she says. Her experience with surfing not only introduced her to the ocean’s power but also instilled a deep admiration for its beauty and unpredictability. “More than love, I developed deep respect for the ocean, most especially for its marine life,” she says. “The connection [to ocean conservation] further deepened when I studied pearls,” Rosar explains. “That love for the ocean, coupled with my discovery of how nature could grow such beautiful things, made ocean conservation even more critical to my life’s purpose.”

Natural pearls occur in various shapes and colours (Photo: courtesy of L’École Asia Pacific, School of Jewelry Arts)

Natural pearls occur in various shapes and colours (Photo: courtesy of L’École Asia Pacific, School of Jewelry Arts)

It’s one thing to understand that sustainable pearl production is beneficial to all concerned, but how can consumers be sure their gems measure up? Certification programmes like the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) for bivalves are stepping up to provide assurance, setting rigorous standards for responsible farming practices, covering everything from environmental impact to social responsibility.

There is also a growing emphasis on traceability—knowing the journey of a pearl from its origin to the consumer—which allows for greater transparency. “We use our own pearl nuclei. Essentially, we create a complete, miniature cultured pearl value chain,” says Wong, whose father set up Fukui Shell Nucleus Factory in 1990. But Wong and his father soon realised the need to produce pearls that add to the value chain and decided to create a technology that can easily differentiate real pearls from fake. “In 2012, my father and I innovated Meta Kaku, a patented pearl identification technology. It involves placing a wireless tag inside the pearl nucleus, allowing unique identification once the pearl grows. Coupled with IoT [internet of things] technology, communication technology and blockchain, this innovation aims to make the entire value chain transparent.” But, he admits, “while the idea was groundbreaking, it faced rejection from the traditional industry due to its disruptive nature. This led us to start growing our own pearls.”

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David Wong passing on his passion for pearls to his son at their pearl farm in Tai Po, Hong Kong (Photo: courtesy of David Wong)

Today, pearl farming offers vital economic opportunities for coastal communities around the world. It supports a so-called “blue economy”, defined by the United Nations as an economy that “comprises a range of economic sectors and related policies that together determine whether the use of ocean resources is sustainable”, while the World Bank says it is the “sustainable use of ocean resources for economic growth, improved livelihoods and jobs, while preserving the health of ocean ecosystem”. In regions like India’s Andhra Pradesh and Mexico’s Sea of Cortez, it has become a sustainable alternative to fishing and traditional agriculture. It provides stable jobs in farming, processing and even tourism, while reducing pressure on marine ecosystems. In fact, Wong’s father built a small hotel alongside their pearl farm in Hong Kong. “This became the inspiration for what I’m doing now: pearl ecotourism,” Wong says.

There are also opportunities for those in tech and science, as innovation and ingenuity are often at the heart of successful modern pearl farms like Wong’s. “Our pearl farming technique is a hybrid, combining Chinese methods with what we learnt from Japanese pearl farmers,” he says.

Mirabel Rosar (Photo: courtesy of Arao Fine Jewellery)

An Arao fine jewellery Golden South Sea Pearl ring (Photo: courtesy of Arao Fine Jewellery)

Rosar chose to work specifically with Golden South Sea Pearls because they are her home country’s national gem; using them is a way to celebrate her culture— serendipitously, she says, they also represent prosperity and success. “Not many people know that the Philippines is the largest source of Golden South Sea pearls—or that the Philippines is the third-largest producer of South Sea pearls in the world. The industry already fulfils my sustainability goals; the ‘golden’ element is an extra. Knowing that it is one of the rarest colours, naturally coloured, and can grow to be the largest of all types of pearls makes me prouder to be Filipino.”

As with most of modern life, climate change poses significant threats to oyster health and productivity. Rising sea temperatures and ocean acidification disrupt the delicate balance required for successful cultivation, while unsustainable practices, such as overcrowding or the use of antibiotics, can harm both oysters and their surrounding ecosystems if not carefully managed.

Rosar says: “The most challenging aspect of sustainable pearl sourcing that most people don’t see is that the pearl set in jewellery comes from something that was started four to five years ago.” This means pearl farmers won’t know the quality of their gems until a certain period of time has passed, yet they must care for those oysters against the potential damage done by “climate change, changing water temperature, disruptive typhoons during monsoon season, and the ocean’s acidity levels. From my end, sourcing becomes [harder] with fewer pearls to choose from,” she says. Arao balances the luxury aspect of the brand with environmental responsibility by only working with pearl suppliers who can verify the quality of the water and who promote the health of the marine ecosystem.

Shucking oysters at the Hong Kong Pearl Farm with L’École Asia Pacific School of Jewelry Arts (Photo: courtesy of David Wong)

Find pearls in the oysters in Hong Kong’s Tai Po pearl farm (Photo: courtesy of David Wong)

Woodring believes the luxury industry can similarly champion the cause of ocean conservation. “They should be environmental stewards. Hopefully, they can use their product to [signal] to their audience that [protecting the ocean is] important; that these pearls are grown in a proper environment because the water has been protected or been improved from 30 years ago.” He thinks that by “repackaging the message”, luxury brands can influence more people than an environmental activist like him. “People may not care about hearing me talk about water or plastic pollution, but they might care about the jewellery and say, ‘Wow, this is amazing. Who designed it? Where did it come from? How did you grow it?’ And then, you get the whole message.”

The recent resurgence of pearls in pop culture has shone a light on the marine gems for younger consumers who value sustainability as much as style, and who are increasingly concerned about their environmental impact. Choosing pearl jewellery in many ways is a more responsible option over other stones or materials.

But the idea cannot be to simply replace other jewels with pearls. Expanding pearl farming isn’t just about producing more jewellery; it’s about rethinking how we interact with the natural world. By creating incentives for clean water and biodiversity protection while supporting coastal livelihoods, pearl farms offer a scalable model for sustainable development. In an era where luxury often comes at an ecological cost, pearls stand out as gems that give back—not just to those who wear them but also to the planet. But for now, for conscious consumers seeking elegance without compromise, pearls may well be the ultimate sustainable treasure—a legacy as striking as Hepburn’s character’s legendary necklace.

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