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Understanding why the Cannes Film Festival dress code is problematic

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 05月19日07:54 • 發布於 05月15日07:02 • Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Oscar-winner Halle Berry appeared at the 78th Cannes Film Festival in a chic striped Jacquemus dress—but it was her plan B. Her original intention was to wear an elaborate sculptural Gaurav Gupta gown with a sweeping train, but she had to ditch it last minute after festival officials announced a dress code that banned “nudity” and “voluminous outfits” on the Cannes red carpet.

While Berry, who is a jury member at Cannes this time, played by the rules and even said that the festival’s nudity ban was “probably a good rule” in the press conference, her eleventh-hour wardrobe crisis spotlighted the real problem behind the Cannes Film Festival’s stringent dress code—its attempt to restrict choices and autonomy in the name of “decency” and “managing traffic flow”.

Read more: Cannes Film Festival: Most memorable fashion moments of all time

Rule-breakers on the red carpet

Chinese actress Wan QianHui wore a voluminous couture gown to the Cannes Film Festival—exactly the kind that the festival organisers have advised against wearing, citing reasons of “managing traffic flow” (Photo: Instagram / @qianhui_wan)

Chinese actress Wan QianHui wore a voluminous couture gown to the Cannes Film Festival—exactly the kind that the festival organisers have advised against wearing, citing reasons of “managing traffic flow” (Photo: Instagram / @qianhui_wan)

L’Oreal ambassador Heidi Klum also wore a gown with a long train to the 78th Cannes Film Festival (Photo: Instagram / @heidiklum)

L’Oreal ambassador Heidi Klum also wore a gown with a long train to the 78th Cannes Film Festival (Photo: Instagram / @heidiklum)

While Berry opted for compliance, other stars chose defiance on the Cannes red carpet. Supermodel Heidi Klum turned heads in a overflowing petal-inspired Elie Saab creation that brazenly ignored the new restrictions. Chinese actress Wan QianHui similarly flouted the guidelines in a billowing Wang Feng couture tulle gown.

A history of fashion rebellion at Cannes

Kristen Stewart took off her heels at the Cannes Film Festival 2018 (Photo: Getty Images)

Kristen Stewart took off her heels at the Cannes Film Festival 2018 (Photo: Getty Images)

Julia Roberts walked barefoot to the ‘Money Monster’ premiere at the Cannes Film Festival 2016 (Photo: Getty Images)

Julia Roberts walked barefoot to the ‘Money Monster’ premiere at the Cannes Film Festival 2016 (Photo: Getty Images)

However this isn’t the first time that celebs have rebelled against the dress codes at Cannes Film Festival. In 2015, women were reportedly barred from screenings for wearing flat shoes instead of heels. In an apparent protest against this, in 2016, Julia Roberts walked the Cannes red carpet barefoot to the premiere of her film Money Monster.

Kristen Stewart took her protest a step further. She wore checkered Vans at the 2016 opening gala dinner of Cannes Film Festival before switching to heels for the formal premiere. By 2018, Stewart had escalated her protest—removing her black Louboutin heels mid-carpet and proceeding barefoot for the screening of Spike Lee’s BlacKkKlansman.

Oscar-winner Susan Sarandon also joined the resistance, pointedly wearing elegant flat shoes on the Cannes red carpet in 2016. While the festival has now officially approved “elegant shoes and sandals with or without a heel”, sneakers remain forbidden—a curious distinction that continues to raise eyebrows.

Beyond fashion: The politics of dress codes

Halle Berry wore a Jacquemus dress to the 78th Cannes Film Festival, abiding by the dress code (Photo: Getty Images)

Halle Berry wore a Jacquemus dress to the 78th Cannes Film Festival, abiding by the dress code (Photo: Getty Images)

On the other hand, Wan QianHui ignored the guidelines in a billowing Wang Feng gown (Photo: Instagram / @qianhui_wan)

On the other hand, Wan QianHui ignored the guidelines in a billowing Wang Feng gown (Photo: Instagram / @qianhui_wan)

Meanwhile, the Cannes Film Festival’s latest ban on “nudity” reveals a deeper issue. Critics argue these rules disproportionately target women’s bodies while reinforcing outdated ideas about female modesty. Ultimately, it’s a manifestation of broader questions about women’s autonomy in public life. As the festival continues its glamorous tradition, the red carpet remains a contested terrain where women are still forced to navigate these arbitrarily enforced and gendered restrictions. No matter how one reacts to these rules—a practical pivot like Berry’s or Klum’s open defiance—these responses make a powerful statement about women’s ongoing struggles in our most visible cultural spaces.

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