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What does it take to run a restaurant that is good for the planet?

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 03月26日02:50 • 發布於 03月25日03:54 • Katelyn Tan

What does it mean to be sustainable? How viable is it for a restaurant to be 100% sustainable? With diners increasing their awareness about environmental impact and waste reduction, the term ‘sustainability’ is often thrown around more than it should be. More restaurants have pushed for these practices, but this becomes an issue when sustainability is performative rather than genuine, used to attract customers or awards.

While it is hard to measure or ascertain sustainability, these two restaurants are championing true environmental responsibility. Locavore NXT, located in Bali, Indonesia, is a playground helmed by Ray Adriansyah and Eelke Plasmeijer that melds nature and dining, with a food forest, mushroom fruiting chamber, hyperlocal foraged ingredients, and more. Meanwhile, Mora, helmed by Vicky Lau, proudly uses local ingredients in its dishes with a hyper-seasonal menu with an ingredient that is of utmost importance within Asian culture at its core—soy.

Read more: 14 exciting restaurants, bars, and cafés to check out in Jakarta, Indonesia

Can a restaurant be truly, 100% sustainable?

Creamy Tofu, Razor Clam, Avocado, Coffee Oil and Mustard Herbs (Photo: Mora)

Creamy Tofu, Razor Clam, Avocado, Coffee Oil and Mustard Herbs (Photo: Mora)

Vicky Lau: Achieving 100% sustainability in a restaurant is an incredibly ambitious goal, especially in a city like Hong Kong. At the moment, I would say it’s close to impossible, but we can certainly get closer to it. First, there’s the issue of the supply chain. Even if a restaurant sources local, organic, and ethical ingredients, the transportation, packaging, and production processes still involve some level of environmental impact. Second, the energy required for operations—like refrigeration, lighting, and cooking—needs to come entirely from renewable sources, which depends heavily on the infrastructure and resources available in the city. Third, waste management systems, such as composting, recycling, and zero-waste initiatives, require all materials to be fully recyclable or compostable, which isn’t always feasible.

On top of these challenges, we also need to consider consumer behavior, such as how customers travel to the restaurant, and the economic constraints of implementing fully sustainable practices, which can be prohibitively expensive. For now, I believe the best approach is to focus on making progress rather than aiming for 100% sustainability perfection right away. Small, consistent steps can still lead to significant positive change.

Vicky Lau (Photo: Mora)

Vicky Lau (Photo: Mora)

Eelke Plasmeijer: Sustainability is becoming such a trendy word that it might start boring people, and that is very dangerous as it should be a part of our daily lives. There are many sides to this subject—sourcing is only a small part, and other things like team welfare, waste management, and careful use of resources are just as important. I can only speak on behalf of Locavore NXT, but here we are trying to be the best restaurant we can, not just for guests but our surroundings and the entire planet. Addressing it to our team, neighbours, and guests as often as we can is important. It is always better to be part of the solution than part of the problem.

See also: 5 foods you didn’t know were Singaporean

What does sustainability mean to you?

Eelke Plasmeijer (Photo: Locavore NXT)

Eelke Plasmeijer (Photo: Locavore NXT)

Plasmeijer: Everything. Locavore NXT is designed and built with sustainability in mind, from our four closed loop water system and our circular waste system to our only sourcing local policy and our sonar panels on our parking roof. Not to mention also the edible jungle growing on our rooftop to the Miyawaki Food forest around our Wood Rooms cottages, and the list goes on!

Lau: To me, sustainability is about living in harmony with the planet and ensuring its future well-being. In a city-based restaurant, there are several steps we can take to align with this vision. First, we can design the menu thoughtfully, emphasizing plant-based dishes, which typically have a lower environmental footprint compared to meat-based options. Second, we can prioritise ingredients sourced from local farms and fisheries that follow sustainable practices. Additionally, implementing systems for composting, recycling, and reusable packaging can significantly reduce waste. Water conservation efforts, such as using water-efficient appliances, also play a crucial role. These steps, while not exhaustive, are meaningful ways to contribute to a more sustainable future.

Don’t miss: The Malaysian chefs and restaurateurs who are breaking boundaries in a historically male-dominated space

What practices do you incorporate into your restaurant regarding sustainability?

Charred scoby (Photo: Locavore NXT)

Charred scoby (Photo: Locavore NXT)

Lau: When we set out to create Mora, sustainability was at the core of our vision from the very beginning. Having this mindset from the start made it easier to integrate sustainable practices into every aspect of the restaurant. We chose a location on an antique street that celebrates the reuse of old goods and is car-free, which aligns with our values.

Our menu is centered around a plant-based protein—soy. We source non-GMO beans and make the soymilk ourselves in a small workshop nearby, minimizing the transportation distance for this heavy liquid. We’ve built our dishes around this ingredient, featuring it in every course to reduce reliance on meat or seafood without compromising the dining experience for non-vegetarians.

As someone who isn’t a vegetarian, I understand that humans have a long history as meat-eaters, rooted in our hunter-gatherer origins. While it’s challenging to completely eliminate meat, I believe adaptation is key. Our approach is about balance—offering delicious, satisfying meals that prioritize sustainability while still catering to diverse dietary preferences.

Tofu Pudding, Black Rice Soy Ice Cream and Fig Compote (Photo: Mora)

Tofu Pudding, Black Rice Soy Ice Cream and Fig Compote (Photo: Mora)

Plasmeijer: Sustainability has become a core part of Locavore’s DNA over the last 11 years. When we first started Locavore, it was not something we planned, but rather practices that became more important and logical for us over time. It started with sourcing our ingredients locally, making sure we made the most of our waste, and so on, until the restaurant that is now Locavore NXT emerged.

What do you hope for in the future?

The entrance to Locavore NXT (Photo: Locavore NXT)

The entrance to Locavore NXT (Photo: Locavore NXT)

Eelke Plasmeijer: I hope that people in this industry will see that we can, and should, make a positive impact and try to inspire our guests and teams how little things make a difference. Hopefully all these little things together become something bigger that will save our planet before it is too late.

Deep Fried Tofu Squid, Sesame Sauce, Pine Nuts and Radish (Photo: Mora)

Deep Fried Tofu Squid, Sesame Sauce, Pine Nuts and Radish (Photo: Mora)

Vicky Lau: I believe the challenge of sustainability extends far beyond the F&B industry—it requires a complete rethinking of how humans grow, distribute, and consume food. It’s a broader issue that involves urban planning, energy sources, and the entire food ecosystem. Sustainability is a collective effort, and restaurants are just one small part of the puzzle.

As part of the restaurant industry, our role is not only to serve food but also to educate diners, raising awareness and sharing knowledge about sustainable practices. Chefs, in particular, act as connectors between farmers and diners, making our role crucial. We have the opportunity to showcase dishes and dining experiences that prioritize sustainability, proving that delicious food and environmental responsibility can go hand in hand. Our job is to inspire change by creating meals that are both mindful and memorable, showing that sustainability can be both achievable and enjoyable.

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