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Alain Ducasse in Macau: a night of culinary excellence and an exclusive conversation with the legendary chef

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 03月20日10:09 • 發布於 03月20日09:52 • Tatler Hong Kong

Some meals are designed to nourish. Others to impress. And then there are meals like this—where every bite, every detail and every note of music exists to reinforce a singular idea: that you are somewhere extraordinary.

That idea was in full force at Alain Ducasse at Morpheus in City of Dreams Macau. The scene was set within Studio Jouin Manku’s dream-like design, where crystal chandeliers glowed softly over a room of distinguished guests including entrepreneur Kevin Poon, YouTuber Emi Wong, actress and winemaker Bernice Liu and actor Adam Pak, who gathered for a night of culinary precision, elegance and conversation. At the centre of it all was Ducasse himself, a chef whose name is synonymous with the evolution of French cuisine.

Chef de Cuisine of Alain Ducasse at Morpheus, Cedric Satabin (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Chef de Cuisine of Alain Ducasse at Morpheus, Cedric Satabin (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Chef de Cuisine of Alain Ducasse at Morpheus, Cedric Satabin (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Chef de Cuisine of Alain Ducasse at Morpheus, Cedric Satabin (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Property president of City of Dreams Macau Timothy Kelly framed the night as a celebration of ambition—of architecture, gastronomy and the kind of relentless innovation that defines Macau. Then Ducasse took the floor, describing the city as a place of reinvention, where competition fuels creativity and where his vision for French cuisine finds its perfect home. The five-course menu, featuring a selection of his most iconic creations, alongside classic French recipes, was a study in balance—between indulgence and restraint, modernity and tradition. Opening the meal with elegance was Alaskan king crab with garden peas and gold caviar, a variation on one of his signatures, followed by green asparagus and morels with potato gnocchi, a dish that balances vibrant seasonality with comforting depth. Every element was precise, considered and deeply rooted in Ducasse’s philosophy of letting pristine ingredients do the talking.

All wines served during that exclusive evening came from the restaurant’s 1,200-label wine cellar. The thoughtfully chosen pairings included a 2022 Chablis Vieilles Vignes from Roland Lavantureux, a 2021 Clos Saint Urbain Alsace Grand Cru Riesling from Domaine Zind Humbrecht and a 2003 port from Quinta do Noval.

Yet another dimension was added by the music that was woven through the evening. A harpist and violinist provided an elegant backdrop to the first courses, while later, singer-songwriter Phil Lam took to the stage. His saxophone and rich vocals transformed the room, shifting the energy from quiet admiration to something more celebratory.

Alaskan king crab, garden peas and gold caviar (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Alaskan king crab, garden peas and gold caviar (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Green asparagus and morels, potato gnocchi (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Green asparagus and morels, potato gnocchi (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

By the final course, the evening had reached its crescendo—a seamless interplay of atmosphere and culinary artistry. Guests departed with menus signed by Ducasse and handcrafted chocolate cakes, but what lingered was something less tangible: the imprint of a night when every element wove together into an unforgettable experience.

We seized the moment to sit down with Ducasse, delving into his thoughts on Macau, and the shifting landscape and future of haute cuisine.

Legendary chef Alain Ducasse (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Legendary chef Alain Ducasse (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Macau is one of just three places in Asia where you’ve established outposts of your restaurant empire. What attracted you to this city and why was City of Dreams the perfect setting for your vision?

With a hotel designed by Zaha Hadid [Architects] and a restaurant crafted by [Studio] Jouin Manku, we are situated in an extraordinary setting, where we present contemporary French cuisine. This venue holds great significance for us, especially given that we are catering to a discerning clientele. The combination of cuisine and location is designed to create an unforgettable experience for our guests. City of Dreams was a natural choice, as its vision for excellence and the exceptional aligns with my own.

You’ve travelled extensively around the world. What makes Macau particularly significant to you?

Macau is one of the most dynamic destinations we’ve encountered during our travels in Asia. Its energy, ambition and constant evolution make it a truly remarkable place.

The restaurant’s design is as striking as its cuisine. How do you feel it complements the bold architectural statement of Morpheus?

The relationship between architecture and cuisine is essential. We place great importance on the DNA of French cuisine—the fundamental principles of French cooking—while adapting them to suit the tastes of the modern diner. With this approach to modernity and creativity, we must also find harmony and balance between form and function—between the restaurant itself and the architecture that houses it.

French gastronomy has long been the gold standard in fine dining but Asian cuisines are leading global trends more than ever. How do you see the balance between the two and how this landscape is changing?

French cuisine remains a cornerstone of global gastronomy but competition drives chefs to be more creative. Across Asia, we’re seeing incredible talent redefining their own culinary traditions while embracing new techniques and ideas. The landscape is constantly evolving and that’s what makes this industry so exciting.

You’ve shaped the careers of so many chefs. What’s one piece of advice you would give to the next generation of chefs?

Young chefs must travel, explore and immerse themselves in different cuisines—but the key is not to imitate. Creativity and innovation are essential. A chef must develop their own identity, which is no easy feat. Every restaurant and destination should tell a unique story. In an increasingly globalised world, it’s more important than ever to embrace and celebrate culinary diversity.

Mr. Timothy Kelly, Property President of City of DreamsMacau (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Mr. Timothy Kelly, Property President of City of DreamsMacau (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Guests celebrating the night at Alain Ducasse at Morpheus (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Guests celebrating the night at Alain Ducasse at Morpheus (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Guests celebrating the night at Alain Ducasse at Morpheus (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Guests celebrating the night at Alain Ducasse at Morpheus (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Saxophone performance by Phil Lam (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Saxophone performance by Phil Lam (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Saxophone performance by Phil Lam (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Saxophone performance by Phil Lam (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Youtuber Emi Wong (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Youtuber Emi Wong (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Actress and winemaker Bernice Liu with entrepreneur Kevin Poon (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Actress and winemaker Bernice Liu with entrepreneur Kevin Poon (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Hong Kong actor Adam Pak (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

Hong Kong actor Adam Pak (Photo: Tatler Hong Kong)

On the topic of inspiring the next generation, what would you say if you could speak to your younger self?

Stay true to your dreams and pursue your ambitions with determination.

You’ve built an empire on the idea of haute cuisine, but fine dining is evolving rapidly. Do you think the notion of ‘luxury’ in restaurants is changing, and if so, how?

Fine dining today is more diverse than ever. I recently visited Dubai and dined at Orfali Bros, where the new wave of fine dining and gastronomy is truly pushing boundaries—this is real competition, led by exceptionally talented chefs. I also spent time in New York, where I met a young Mexican chef, still learning, who was blending Mexican and Spanish influences after honing his skills in Spain. His talent was undeniable, and his approach represents the exciting evolution of cuisine. I truly appreciated his food.

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