Indian wedding guide: The hidden meaning behind Indian jewellery and how to wear it right
To step into an Indian wedding is to enter a world where jewellery is a living, breathing language—one that speaks of ancestry, faith and the unbroken thread of tradition. Across the subcontinent, from the palaces of Rajasthan to the lush backwaters of Kerala, Indian wedding jewellery is a visual spectacle, each piece chosen to reflect not just personal taste, but the collective ethos of a community. Here, necklaces are not just worn for beauty; they are talismans against misfortune, declarations of marital status, and, often, the most valuable heirlooms a family possesses.
What makes Indian wedding jewellery so endlessly fascinating is its astonishing diversity. Every region, every community, has developed its own distinctive style, technique, and symbolism—shaped by centuries of migration, trade and royal patronage. The uncut diamonds of a Rajasthani polki set, the temple-inspired gold of a Tamil bride, the coral beads of a Naga wedding, or the celestial navratna haar sparkling with nine sacred gemstones: each is a chapter in a much larger story, one that weaves together mythology, astrology and the aspirations of generations.
For those attending an Indian wedding, understanding these nuances is not only a mark of respect but also a way to fully appreciate the beauty and meaning behind every shimmering detail.
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The many languages of Indian wedding jewellery
A North Indian bride (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / @wedmegood / Gautam Khullar Photography)
Kaleere are ornaments that hang by the bangles and are meant to bring prosperity and good luck to the bride and her bridesmaids (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / @wedmegood / Gautam Khullar Photography)
In North India, the bridal look is often defined by the mangalsutra, a sacred Hindu necklace of gold and black beads, tied by the groom during the wedding to signify marital unity and protection from the evil eye. The maang tikka, a pendant resting on the bride’s forehead, is believed to activate the third eye chakra, inviting wisdom and spiritual clarity as she steps into her new life.
Punjabi brides are instantly recognisable by their chooda, a set of red and white bangles worn for months after the wedding, symbolising marital bliss and fertility. Attached to these are the kaleere, umbrella-shaped gold ornaments that bring good luck and prosperity. What’s most incredible about this community is the rani haar, a long, elaborate necklace, often known as the Hindu necklace, which was worn by royalty. Punjabi grooms often wear a multi-strand pearl or gold kantha necklace, a bejewelled kalgi (turban ornament), and sometimes a ceremonial sword, all signifying royalty and valour.
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A Bengali bride wearing the mukut, a traditional bridal tiara (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / @wedmegood / Rang Wedding Photography)
In Uttar Pradesh, the passa—a side headpiece—and the chik—a gold choker—are nods to Mughal heritage, once worn by noblewomen to signify grace and status. Travel west to Rajasthan, and you’ll find the borla, a round maang tikka, and the aad, a broad choker necklace, both symbols of royal lineage and pride. The brides of the Rajput community of India wear these as a tribute to their warrior ancestry, with the aad in particular marking high status and familial prestige.
Maharashtrian brides are instantly recognisable by the mundavalya, a string of pearls or gold beads draped across the forehead, symbolising readiness for marriage. The nath, a large, ornate nose ring, is a sign of marital happiness and is believed to protect the bride from negative energies—a tradition rooted in Maratha royalty.
A Bengali bride’s look is defined by the mukut, a delicate gold tiara symbolising wealth and prosperity, perched atop her head during the wedding rituals. The tikli, a forehead ornament similar to a maang tikka is often paired with the mukut for a regal effect. Around her neck, the saat noli haar—a seven-strand gold necklace—stands out as a heritage piece, often passed down through generations and worn to signify family legacy and opulence. Completing the ensemble are the shakha (conch shell bangles) and pola (red coral bangles), which are essential symbols of marital status and auspiciousness in Bengali culture.
In the lush hills of Uttarakhand, the galobandh—a black thread necklace with silver embellishments—serves as a protective charm, while the nathuli, an oversized nose ring, is a statement of prosperity and family wealth. These pieces are not just decorative; they are talismans, passed down through generations, binding the bride to her ancestral roots.
South Indian brides, especially among Tamil, Telugu and Kannada communities, are famed for their layers of gold. The kasu mala (coin necklace), manga mala (mango-shaped necklace), and temple jewellery—often featuring motifs of gods and goddesses—are worn to invoke divine blessings and ensure prosperity. The oddiyanam (waist belt) and vanki (armlet) are not just ornamental but are believed to protect the bride and enhance her fertility.
In Nagaland, the bridal necklace is a bold string of red coral beads, a symbol of vitality, status and the family’s wealth. The size and intricacy of the necklace reflect the bride’s social standing, and the coral itself is believed to bring good fortune and protection.
Tripuri brides wear the risha, a beaded belt, and silver chokers, both signifying honour, beauty and the transition into married life. The risha, in particular, is believed to bring good luck and shield the bride from harm.
Why necklaces matter
A Sabyasachi ensemble (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / @Sabyasachioffical)
Necklaces are central to Indian bridal jewellery across communities, but their meanings are layered. The mangalsutra is perhaps the most universally recognised, symbolising the sacred bond of marriage and the bride’s new identity. In other regions, necklaces like the navratna haar—set with nine gemstones, each representing a celestial body—are worn to balance cosmic energies and attract blessings for health, wealth and happiness. The act of wearing a necklace is both a personal and communal ritual, a way of carrying forward the hopes and protection of one’s family, ancestors and the Hindu gods that govern the nine planets of the solar system.
The meaning behind the pieces
Payal or traditional anklets (Photo: courtesy of Butterfly Flower / Unsplash)
Every piece of jewellery worn at an Indian wedding is imbued with symbolism. Bangles, for instance, are far more than colourful accessories. In Indian culture, they are a powerful symbol of marital status and are believed to bring good fortune, prosperity and protection against evil spirits. The sound of bangles—whether glass, gold or ivory—echoes through wedding rituals, considered auspicious and thought to attract positive energy into the couple’s new life together.
Anklets (payal) and toe rings (bichiya or metti) are equally significant. Traditionally crafted in silver, anklets announce the bride’s arrival with their melodious chime, believed to protect her from negative energies and mark her entry into her new home. Toe rings, worn on the second toe of both feet, are a visible sign of marital status and, according to Ayurveda, are thought to enhance reproductive health and fertility. In Hindu tradition, they are also worn to honour deities and bring longevity and prosperity to the marriage. The maang tikka, resting at the centre of the forehead, is believed to stimulate the third eye chakra, enhancing the bride’s intuition and inner wisdom as she embarks on her new journey. Its placement is considered sacred, highlighting the bride’s aura and protecting her from negative influences.
The choice of metal in wedding jewellery is never arbitrary. Gold, in particular, is revered as a symbol of purity, prosperity, and divine blessings. Associated with Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, gold is believed to attract abundance and happiness, making it the preferred metal for most wedding ornaments. The ritual of gifting gold jewellery is seen as a way to bestow love, blessings, and financial security upon the couple, while also serving as a tangible link to family heritage and tradition.
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What should guests wear—and avoid?
Bollywood actor Ananya Panday at a friend’s wedding (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / @ananyapanday)
For guests, Indian weddings are an invitation to embrace colour, tradition and a touch of glamour. At Sindhi weddings, guests are expected to embrace a spirit of unabashed glamour. It’s important to note that Sindhis and diamonds have a storied love affair, one cannot live without the other. The community is renowned for its love of maximalist style, and it’s not unusual to see guests in dazzling diamond sets, bold gold bangles and statement cocktail rings. Men, too, often sport gold chains and gemstone-studded accessories. The atmosphere is festive and opulent, and guests are encouraged to showcase their finest jewellery—just short of bridal exclusives like elaborate maang tikkas or multi-layered rani haars, which remain the bride’s privilege. Red is reserved for the bride, while black and white are generally avoided.
Punjabi weddings are equally exuberant, with guests matching the community’s vibrant energy. Women often wear kundan or polki jewellery, stacks of colourful bangles, and statement earrings, but the iconic chooda and kaleere are strictly for the bride. Men may don gold chains or brooches, but steer clear of the groom’s ceremonial kantha or kalgi. The emphasis is on bold, festive pieces that celebrate the occasion without overshadowing the bridal couple.
Marwari weddings are a showcase of regal tradition and grandeur. Women guests arrive in layers of gold and gemstone jewellery—kundan necklaces, polki earrings, and colourful bangles are all common sights. While opulence is encouraged, the most elaborate pieces, such as the heavyraani haar or the signature borla maang tikka, are reserved for the bride. Men complement the scene with pearl or gemstone-studded necklaces, gold rings, and colourful safas, sometimes finished with a kalgi. As with other communities, red is the bride’s colour, and black and white are considered inauspicious.
Bollywood actor Alia Bhatt at a friend’s wedding (Photo: courtesy of Instagram / @aliabhatt)
Gujarati weddings favour vibrant, festive jewellery that is celebratory but not overwhelming. Women often choose gold or diamond jhumkas, slim bangles, and a single statement necklace, steering clear of bridal-level layering or heavy naths. Men may wear a gold chain or a subtle brooch, but avoid ornate kanthas or anything that mimics the groom’s accessories. The look is joyful and harmonious, always respectful of the bride’s spotlight.
Bengali weddings, by contrast, are defined by refined elegance. Women typically opt for gold filigree necklaces, delicate earrings and slim bangles, sometimes accented with pearls or rubies. Men favour understated gold chains or rings. The aesthetic is traditional and graceful, with guests careful not to upstage the bride’s distinctive shakha-pola bangles or ornate mukut.
Across all these communities, the guiding principle is to celebrate with respect for tradition—choosing jewellery that is festive and elegant, but never so extravagant as to compete with the bride.
Gifting jewellery
A bride wearing a traditional haathphool or hand ornamet (Photo: courtesy of aenl weddings / Unsplash)
For a country that worships gold and considers it a form of a goddess, jewellery is one of the most cherished gifts at Indian weddings, symbolising prosperity, good fortune and the strengthening of family bonds. Gold jewellery—be it a simple chain, earrings, bangles or a coin—is a classic and auspicious choice for family and close friends, believed to bring blessings to the newlyweds. In some regions, families gift the bride a gold necklace or the groom a gold ring, marking the start of their new life together. Silver items, such as anklets or decorative pieces, are also popular, representing purity and new beginnings. For acquaintances and colleagues, if jewellery is out of the budget, consider giving the couple a cash envelope also traditionally called shagun which would cover the cost of your meal and more for good luck.
For a modern touch, digital gold gift cards offered by leading Indian jewellery brands allow couples to invest in their future and choose their own jewellery later. When gifting jewellery, it’s important to select pieces that are timeless and meaningful—something the couple can treasure and perhaps pass down to the next generation.
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