How Shenzhen’s culinary pioneers are redefining the city’s food culture

Shenzhen is a young city—it was, after all, only officially founded in 1979. Often recognised for its rapid innovation and reinvention, it is also sometimes criticised for its lack of deep cultural roots. This perceived shortcoming, however, can also be seen as one of its greatest strengths—an opportunity to craft a fresh, dynamic identity on a blank canvas.

Here, Tatler heads to Shenzhen to discover how its top chefs and restaurateurs are shaping a unique culinary identity in the bustling metropolis—from Chiu Chiu specialists Zhenting and Cantonese fine-dining establishment Zhuo Yue Xuan to surf and turf haven Stone Sal and Japanese restaurant Shoku-Tei Nihonryori.

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Zhenting

Zhenting’s charcoal-grilled sea whelk

Zhenting’s Bombay duck fish stuffed with pineapple

Zhenting’s Deep-fried dough balls

Zhenting’s deboned duck feet

Restaurants that offer Chiu Chow cuisine—renowned for its emphasis on fresh, natural flavours and meticulous preparation—are ubiquitous in Shenzhen. This is thanks to the presence of a large population of Chaoshan natives, from a region in eastern Guangdong province where the cuisine originates, who share a nostalgia for home.

Zhenting is one of the city’s best-known examples. It is a steadfast guardian of authentic Chiu Chow flavours—with the philosophy that what has stood the test of time over centuries is worth preserving. Its mission is to bring Chiu Chow cuisine to a broader audience without altering its essence; even when introducing ingredients that are not traditionally part of the cuisine, such as Yunnan mushrooms, the dishes still showcase authentic Chiu Chow flavours.

The restaurant leaves no stone unturned when it comes to ensuring authenticity. It boasts 28 chefs, all of whom are Chaoshan natives with years of experience in restaurants back home—despite the high cost of employing such specialised talent. It chiefly sources ingredients from their place of origin; comparable alternatives are only considered when absolutely necessary. Those ingredients include seafood such as sea conch, the fish known as Bombay duck, coral trout and mantis shrimp; famous regional fruit and vegetables, like Jieyang kale, Diao Simou black olives and Chaoyang ginger yam; as well as the highly prized three-year-old lion head geese, a species that has a long history in the region.

Zhenting’s Chef Xu Zhenkun

“It’s crucial to prioritise the freshness and natural flavours of ingredients, ensuring their quality and consistency from the source. This allows each ingredient to shine in its own way,” says Xu Zhenkun, Zhenting’s executive chef. This goes beyond fresh ingredients—the restaurant’s lard is rendered from local Shantou pigs and homemade; it is used to enhance the aroma of certain vegetable dishes and to add smoothness to the famous Chiu Chow dish of taro paste with ginkgo nuts. “Its aroma is incomparable to that of pigs from other regions because Shantou pigs are raised on fresh grass, which eliminates any gamey smell. This grass, by the way, is hand-cut from the mountains—it’s what the [Chaoshan] locals are talking about when they refer to ‘cutting pig grass’.”

Cooking techniques are equally important, Xu adds. “We showcase the essence of Chiu Chow cuisine’s iconic dishes using delicate methods like marinating, slicing, braising, stewing and poaching. We focus on studying everyday Chaoshan ingredients and finding ways to elevate them into refined dining experiences.”

There then is the principle Zhenting follows: “Do not settle for mediocrity, especially in food.” A quote from the Qing dynasty poet and gastronome Yuan Mei, it is presented by the calligraphy artist Liu Yanhu and hangs at the end of a hallway in the restaurant. “It represents our philosophy—from how we approach our work to how we present our dishes,” says Xu. “It reflects the Chaoshan spirit of meticulous attention to detail, a love for refinement and a passion for creating beautiful things.”

Stone Sal

Ling Zhengu

The dry-ageing meat cabinet is positioned by a wall made of Himalayan pink salt blocks at Stone Sal

The buzz surrounding Stone Sal has been more than just about its food— it has also been about its spectacular design.

Stepping into the restaurant, you are immediately aware of the grandeur of its 6.8-metre-high ceiling. The entrance is flanked by Roman-style columns made of Amazon Green granite imported from Brazil; the founder, Ling Zhengu, personally sourced 40 tonnes of this stone from its origin. Inside, a towering dry-ageing meat cabinet comes into view, its two levels connected by an internal lift. The upper level serves as a curing room for ham.

Stone Sal’s açaí salmon

Stone Sal’s scallops and roe with passion fruit jelly

The venue’s centrepiece is the bar, which is crowned by a copper sculpture depicting an octopus, weighing two tonnes. This piece was first 3D-printed, then cast using wax moulds and finally sanded by hand—a process that took four and a half months. Installing the sculpture was a herculean task: since indoor cranes couldn’t be used, wooden beams were erected, and 22 people painstakingly hoisted the sculpture into place, securing it to a beam on the ceiling. Ling says that if someone had filmed the process, it would have made for a spectacular video. The bar itself is sunken and designed ergonomically to ensure comfort for the staff working behind it—Ling was so particular about this feature that the bar was torn down and rebuilt twice before he was satisfied.

Stone Sal’s interiors

The bullhead sculpture at Stone Sal

Above the bar, a staircase leads to a wine room, where guests can select bottles under the guidance of a sommelier, while at the far end of the communal dining area, a large, decorative 3D-printed bullhead sculpture adorns the wall. Its eyes were initially fitted with lightbulbs but the illuminated effect was deemed too eerie, so they were painted red instead. On another wall, a pair of Brazilian water buffalo horns serves as a complementary design element. The octopus symbolises seafood and the bull represents steak—two of Stone Sal’s signature offerings.

Ling, who says he “fell in love with the large lawn across from the restaurant—it reminded me of Central Park in New York”— designed the space himself. It isn’t just about the aesthetics either: “Since the restaurant is so spacious, I had to consider both the design and layout to ensure the operations would run as smoothly as possible.”

And despite the extravagant surroundings, “dining here feels relaxed and casual—you don’t need to overthink,” he says. “We’re also very honest. We use the best ingredients, cook with care and provide attentive service.” An insistence on top-quality goods is part of its modus operandi: “When business gets tough, some restaurants cut corners by using cheaper ingredients or reducing staff. My philosophy is the opposite: I believe in offering better quality. If I can increase revenue with higher standards, isn’t that a better way to save costs?”

Shoku-Tei Nihonryori

Chef Daisuke Baba

Mainland China’s ban on Japanese seafood in August 2023 in response to the release of treated water from the Fukushima nuclear power plant forced restaurants around the country to rely heavily on domestic alternatives. Japanese chefs at fine-dining restaurants across the mainland were suddenly confronted with unfamiliar ingredients—even the same species of seafood can vary significantly depending on the waters in which it is caught and how it is processed post-harvest. This also necessitated adjustments to menus and pricing, an unwelcome change for many establishments. For Japanese chefs in particular, who are known for their perfectionism and uncompromising standards, this created a real dilemma.

Shoku-Tei Nihonryori’s charcoal- grilled sirloin with aubergines, shirako (milt) and black truffle

Shoku-Tei Nihonryori in Shenzhen, however, has not let the import ban slow it down. Its executive chef, Daisuke Baba, honed his craft at Kouan, the first three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Kanagawa Prefecture in his native Japan. With the import ban in place, Baba has adapted by researching and sourcing Chinese ingredients, in a quest to find the best replacements for Japanese seafood; for example, discovering ma you fish, a local speciality in Shenzhen he had previously been unaware of. He also sources vegetables, fruits and mushrooms from all over China. He makes it a point to explore markets wherever he travels. “I recently went to Yunnan to explore mushrooms, and I was deeply impressed. The variety of mushrooms there is incredible—by far the most I’ve ever seen in my life. It was eye-opening,” he says. “I also saw lamb being sold in Yunnan markets—skinned, with the organs removed and hanging outside shops. This is something you’d never see in Japan.”

Ginkgo tofu, sea urchin and caviar at Shoku-Tei Nihonryori

For Tatler’s visit to Shoku-Tei Nihonryori, Baba served several dishes featuring an impressively broad range of Chinese ingredients: hairy crab and green yuzu from Shanghai, sea urchin from Dalian, caviar from Hubei, black truffles from Yunnan and long aubergines from northeastern China.

He believes that there are places of origin that offer the best of a certain type of produce. “With some of these, chefs are naturally expected to know about them; but others will require exploration. Sometimes, it’s a matter of sourcing from different suppliers and comparing products one by one.”

Zhuo Yue Xuan’s morel mushrooms and tofu;

Zhuo Yue Xuan’s crispy rice with stir- fried Wagyu beef cubes

Zhuo Yue Xuan

In a city brimming with independent dining options, Zhuo Yue Xuan, the Four Seasons Hotel Shenzhen’s Cantonese restaurant, stands out thanks to its staunch commitment to fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Hong Kong-born Alan Sun, who is Four Seasons Hotel Shenzhen’s executive Chinese chef, helms the restaurant. When asked about the level of support he receives from the hotel, Sun says whatever ingredients he needs— whether it’s high-end abalone or seasonal vegetables—he can get quickly. “Everyone understands one thing,” he says. “Ingredients determine everything.”

Chef Alan Sun

Zhuo Yue Xuan’s braised fish maw with crab roe sauce

Frequent trips to the market help Sun stay informed about the current state of seasonal produce, allowing him to adjust the timing of his seasonal dishes accordingly. “If you stick to a rigid schedule and release seasonal dishes at the same time every year, that’s just ticking the box. I’m not someone who just ticks the box—I have to think about what’s best for the diners. That’s my responsibility.”

Zhuo Yue Xuan has built a loyal customer base, including a significant number of diners from Hong Kong. Among these regulars, a large portion are older Hong Kong residents who are accustomed to traditional Cantonese cuisine—a recognition of Sun’s skills and the restaurant’s commitment to culinary excellence. Diners can expect elevated Cantonese classics such as braised fish maw with crab roe sauce, as well as crispy rice paired with stir-fried Australian Wagyu beef cubes. For the adventurous, there are innovative dishes like morel mushrooms stuffed with homemade black tofu. “This is my own creation—no one else is making this dish yet.”

At the heart of Zhuo Yue Xuan’s success is a dedication to authenticity. “For us Cantonese chefs, the goal is to bring out the innate flavours of the ingredients: chicken should taste like chicken, crab should taste like crab and fish should taste like fish. It’s all about maximising the natural essence of each ingredient.”

But perhaps what truly sets Zhuo Yue Xuan apart is Sun’s unwavering philosophy: “I rely on focus, sincerity and attention to every detail—to bring out the best flavours of each ingredient.”

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