Thai designer Patcharavipa on her collab with Aesop and why both jewellery and perfumes are wearable art
Diamonds and diffusers? Silver and eau de parfum? On first impression, a collaboration between fine jewellery and high-end skincare might seem as logical as pairing socks with sandals (though, admittedly, even that’s making a comeback). But scratch beneath the surface, and you’ll find that Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura’s alliance with Aesop isn’t some marketing-driven fever dream. It’s a clever exploration of sensorial luxury. Why would a brand synonymous with carats and clarity venture into the world of aromatic concoctions?
The answer, like a perfectly cut gem, has many facets. Both Patcharavipa and Aesop trade in experiences. One crafts wearable art designed to be cherished, the other, elixirs that elevate the everyday. Both understand that luxury isn’t just about price tags; it’s about rituals, emotions and the intangible allure of feeling truly good. This isn’t entirely uncharted territory either. Think of Louis Vuitton venturing into fragrances, or high-end fashion houses curating home scent collections—a strategic expansion of brand identity into every corner of lifestyle.
Patcharavipa’s collaboration with Aesop highlights a deeper understanding of modern luxury. Tatler learns from the designer herself about why brands are increasingly getting into the space of crafting holistic experiences that speaks to the senses on multiple levels.
(Photo: courtesy of Patcharavipa x Aesop)
You began making jewellery from a very young age. What drew you to this art form as a young creator and how does this early passion influence your work with Aesop today?I began designing jewellery at the age of 13, drawing inspiration from my family heirlooms. I was born in Thailand into a circle of inventors, developers and philanthropists, which provided fertile ground for my creative spirit. My fascination with jewellery led me to study at London’s Central Saint Martins, where I graduated in 2014—after which I also became a certified gemologist, then soon returned to my hometown of Bangkok to assemble my team of goldsmiths.
There, I developed my signature “antré” texture on jewellery, which is inspired by the limestone stalactites of exotic hideaways and caves from my childhood explorations—memories full of mystery, stillness and calm. For the launch of Aesop’s Aurner Eau de Parfum, I materialised the emotive tensions within the aroma with a jewellery piece that is delicate in form, yet unyielding in materiality.
The vision for my design stems from Aurner’s ingredients, but I translated them into an abstract form, which is wearable. Jewellery is meant to be worn, just like the fragrance itself, and so I needed my design to be something that I would want to wear myself. The final piece derives from the magnolia leaf, which is the non-traditional use of magnolia, which represents Aesop’s defiant and unorthodox approach to create fragrances that challenge industry norms.
(Photo: courtesy of Patcharavipa x Aesop)
Growing up in a family of inventors and philanthropists, how has that unique background shaped your approach to breaking conventional jewellery rules?I’ve always been a bit of a rule breaker, going against the traditional rules of jewellery and what is considered beautiful. I often find beauty in things that have been discarded or, to use a floral term “wilted”. Disruption has become a way of forging one’s own path, or a new path, in many industries. I have never intentionally set out to be disruptive in jewellery, but by following my own passion and belief, I have in turn broken some rules and created a niche that some may say is defiant of conventional beauty.
Tell us how the design captures the essence of Aurner’s magnolia.I have always seen the magnolia as a symbol of power and purity. The leaf on the ear cuff is actually shaped from the leaf of the magnolia. When I was working on the project in Bangkok, I didn’t really get to see magnolia as it doesn’t grow in summer soil. I imagined and researched vintage illustrations of magnolias—I see in them the streaks, veins inside the petal and the leaf, the silhouettes, etc. I often look at Irving Penn for floral photography, and examining how flowers fold, bloom and crease is what inspired the design.
Apart from the magnolia flower, how did you interpret the scent’s other ingredients?I seek a sense of irony in my designs. Drawing inspiration from florals is not new, but finding a way to twist it and making it something more exciting is what made this project so fun. I wanted to not only represent the magnolia in my design, but also the other very important ingredients to the scent. The beautiful texture of cedarwood and the smooth sheen of the magnolia leaves also informed the design.
(Photo: courtesy of Patcharavipa x Aesop)
When you hold the finished ear cuff, what aspects of its design made you most proud as an artist and rule-breaker?Aesop’s intent was to embody one of Aurner’s key ingredients—the magnolia—into a bespoke keepsake. My initial vision for the ear cuff was to reimagine the tip of a flower petal wrapping around the ear, but of course we did not want it to be too literal. The challenge was to represent the qualities of nature without the actual shape of the petal. I started by sketching the design, and making samples with wax moulds, which evolved through many design iterations to the final magnolia leaf shape which aligns more with Aesop’s non-conformist approach to fragrance.
As someone who finds beauty in “wilted” or discarded things, what stories or emotions do you hope each of the 200 limited-edition pieces will carry?I see my ethos as striving for balance. The balance of feminine and masculine; of intense sparkle and shine with bold shapes; traditional cuts of stones but in unconventional scales; or known metals in a tactile and raw finish. I continuously strive for originality, looking and wanting to create something unique within the world of fine jewellery. Just like the notes of a fragrance change on each person who wears it, so too does a piece of jewellery. This piece is meant to be easy to wear, but also to encourage an individual fashion statement.
Speaking of balancing opposing elements—feminine/masculine, sparkle/boldness, how is the balance showcase itself in the Aurner ear cuff?The material and the technique—the metal wrapped tightly—are both representative of the “defiant bloom” theme. The final piece derives from the magnolia leaf, which is a non-traditional take on magnolia. It perfectly reflects Aesop’s defiant and unorthodox approach to create fragrances that challenge industry norms. We added rhodium plating over the silver to showcase an intense shine, but also to give it an ethos of being delicate and strong at the same time.
Céline Barel, Aurner’s perfumer (Photo: courtesy of Aesop)
How do your Thai roots and the Japanese wabi-sabi philosophy converge in your jewellery to tell a unique story?Growing up being surrounded by a rich mix of cultures—and among Thai arts and craftsmanship—enabled me to see, learn and respect each culture’s thinking. The design of Thai craftsmanship can be very elaborate and vibrant; the gold can be very expressive. In contrast, the work of Japanese craftsmanship is simpler in its approach. Something that is imperfect or forgotten, or even broken can become substantial and beautiful. I think both philosophies have impacted how I make and design each piece.
How do you champion your Thai heritage, particularly in terms of craftsmanship?Our atelier is located in Bangkok, Thailand, and all of our goldsmiths are Thai. They are all true artisans who have learnt their craft through generational guidance, which is a rarity in today’s world of mass production, even within the luxury space. Each piece of my jewellery is lovingly designed and handmade within our atelier. The Thai tradition of handiwork and the pride that comes with exceptional workmanship is a constant in every piece that I make.
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