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Chef Alessio Durante on his culinary philosophy and the new chapter at Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen’s Opus 388

Tatler Hong Kong

更新於 04月16日02:24 • 發布於 04月15日09:00 • Fontaine Cheng

Perched 388 metres above Shenzhen, Opus 388 is Mandarin Oriental’s sky-high ode to French fine dining, helmed by Italian-born chef Alessio Durante.

Having honed his craft in some of Europe’s most decorated kitchens—including stints under Alain Ducasse—Durante now brings his elegant, ingredient-led cuisine to one of China’s fastest-moving cities.

His latest tasting menu, My Journey to China Chapter 2, is both a love letter to the local terroir and a chronicle of his own culinary evolution.

In this conversation, the chef reflects on the lessons that shaped him, the dish that defined his childhood, and why Shenzhen’s ever-curious diners keep him inspired.

Alessio Durante with his team at Opus 388

Alessio Durante with his team at Opus 388

In your own words, how would you describe your culinary style?

My culinary style is based on three fundamental principles: authenticity, respect for ingredients and technical precision. I believe every dish should tell a story—one that reflects not only my own life experience but also the essence of my cuisine, influenced by the places and people that have shaped me. Each ingredient holds its own importance, and my goal is to enhance it in the most natural way possible while preserving its true flavour. I like to work with the seasons and take inspiration from what’s fresh and available.

Do you have a favourite dish on the Opus 388 menu?

One of my favourite dishes on the menu is Sea Coral. It stems from childhood memories of growing up by the sea in my hometown. Spending time on the beach with friends, surrounded by the scents and colours of the coast. I’ve always loved the sea and feel deeply connected to it. It continues to inspire me through the ingredients it offers.

Who has been the biggest influence on your culinary journey?

The people I’ve worked with. Every chef and every brigade has left an imprint on me. But if I had to name one person, it would be Claudio Pasquarelli [of Da Claudio in northwest Italy]. I spent many years with him, starting when I was just a kid. He was the first to believe in me, to push me beyond my limits, and to teach me that in the kitchen, talent isn’t enough, you also need consistency, precision and determination. A large part of who I am today is thanks to his guidance and the time he invested in my growth.

Sea Coral

Sea Coral

Shenzhen’s energy is fast-paced and innovative. How does that influence what you’re creating at Opus 388?

After years of experience, I chose Shenzhen because of the incredible opportunity at Mandarin Oriental (MO), which offers an amazing platform for my cuisine.

Shenzhen is still a young city on the regional gastronomic scene, but it represents a new frontier. There’s an incredible curiosity and interest in food here. The city is constantly evolving, and I find it inspiring to work in such a dynamic environment, where diners are increasingly attentive, adventurous and open to new experiences.

You’ve worked in kitchens across Italy, France and Asia. What’s the one lesson you’ve carried with you everywhere?

Respect. First, respect for ingredients because, without high-quality raw materials, you can’t build anything. Then, respect for the kitchen itself, because this profession demands discipline, dedication and sacrifice. Respect those who work alongside you, because without a strong team, you won’t go far. And respect for the people who come to dine, because every dish should stir an emotion.

Every kitchen has its own rules and culture, but if you carry respect with you, you can adapt anywhere and learn from anyone.

French fine dining has such deep roots in tradition. How do you give it your own voice or make it applicable to modern tastes?

Tradition is the foundation. It’s where you start. To me, tradition isn’t a limit, it’s a guide. I’ve been lucky to work in kitchens that uphold the legacy of great French cuisine, learning the importance of technique, precision and balance. Over time, I’ve developed my own style, shaped by my experiences. My cuisine is French at its core, but it reflects my personality and I always strive for balance.

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What is one thing that many people do not know about you?

Once I set my mind on something, there’s no changing it. It’s not just stubbornness. I believe that quality and consistency come above all else. If I believe in a project, I see it through to the end, no compromises.

And there’s a dream I’ve been keeping in my pocket for some time: writing a book. After years of working in acclaimed kitchens, I’ve collected stories, emotions and lessons that deserve to be shared. I don’t know when it will happen, but one day that book will come to life. Done my way, with no shortcuts.

What is the one ingredient you can’t live without?

Extra virgin olive oil. It’s a connection to my homeland, Liguria. The scent of freshly pressed oil, its golden hue and the fruity taste that varies with each variety of olive. It embodies both simplicity and excellence. It also brings depth, roundness and character to a dish, enhancing other flavours without ever overpowering them.

What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?

I love Italian, French and Japanese cuisine but now I’m diving deeper into Chinese cuisine, discovering new ingredients and dishes that impress me every day.

It’s hard to name just one destination because every cuisine has something extraordinary to offer. So rather than one favourite city, I’d say my favourite place is always the one that manages to surprise me.

Brittany blue lobster with buffalo ricotta ravioli

Brittany blue lobster with buffalo ricotta ravioli

Slow cooked Heilongjiang Wagyu cheek

Slow cooked Heilongjiang Wagyu cheek

What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?

I’ve been lucky to enjoy meals at some of the world’s greatest restaurants—Noma, Aponiente, Koks, Central and Maido in Lima, Ducasse and Robuchon’s restaurants, and many more. Each of these experiences gave me something: a memory, a detail an unforgettable emotion.

If I had to choose just one, I’d say Alain Ducasse at Morpheus in Macau. Chef Cédric’s cuisine is a perfect reflection of Ducasse’s philosophy: exceptional ingredients treated with respect and a simplicity that hides refined complexity.

It’s your last meal—what’s on the menu?

A plate of trofie al pesto [a traditional Ligurian dish], the way my mother makes it. Because when everything else fades, it’s the flavours of childhood that stay with you. Her pesto—made in a mortar with fresh-picked basil, good olive oil, parmesan and pecorino—is the taste of home, of family, of who I am.

Opus 388Address: 77/F, Block A UpperHills, Mandarin Oriental Shenzhen, No 5001 Huanggang Road, Futian District, Shenzhen, China

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