上週日早晨,Dover Street Market 巴黎新店的頂樓展間熱鬧非凡。買手們正仔細瀏覽零售商孵化的品牌,包括 ERL、Rassvet 和 Phileo。而與這些熟悉名字並列的,還有一個嶄新名字——印在入口門上的標誌:「DSM Brand」。
這是 Dover Street Market 自 2004 年創立以來,首次推出的自有服裝系列,由 Noir 設計師 二宮啟(Kei Ninomiya) 操刀設計。
這不是 Noir,這是 Dover Street Market 的靈魂
二宮啟(Kei Ninomiya)
身穿全黑、頂著標誌性莫霍克髮型的二宮啟,在現場分享他對這個系列的構思:「這與我平常設計的 Noir 完全不同,這是一個來自 DSM 的原創品牌。我想了解它的哲學、身份與 DNA。」他解釋道,DSM 是一個國際化、充滿多元文化的社群:「這裡有來自世界各地的設計師與顧客,就像一個沒有名字的團隊。所以我想為他們設計衣服。」
學院風制服,變身全球時尚兄弟會識別
本系列從學校制服的概念出發,打造出專屬於 DSM 的「新學期制服」:無領校服剪裁的聚酯夾克(深栗色與黑色),帶有 DSM 自創徽章的設計,其中一個版本配有兜帽,象徵性的大象圖騰——源自 2015 年 Gucci 在 DSM 銀座裝置的藝術作品。這隻大象成為系列核心意象,出現在 DSMU 運動服上,包括球衣、長褲、T-shirt、襪子與運動外套。此外,系列還包含:學校風格領帶,開襟學院毛衣與針織衫,百褶裙與英國老牌 duffle coat 製造商 Gloverall 合作的趣味針織外套。
從 DSM 家族,到世界各地街頭
這個 DSM 品牌系列將於 全球所有 Dover Street Market 分店上架銷售,並計劃以批發形式引進尚未設點的城市。值得一提的是,本次造型型錄(Lookbook)尚在製作中,模特不僅有 DSM 店員,還包括品牌好友與文化人物,如 Carla Sozzani、ASAP Nast、Olivier Saillard 以及 Jean-Baptiste Talbourdet-Napoleone。
下一步:從內部孵化,到外部聯名?
這只是 DSM 品牌的第一章。據悉,二宮啟將持續負責未來幾季的設計,但未來 DSM 也不排除與其他品牌展開合作。這個充滿實驗精神與制服情懷的新企劃,讓人期待 DSM 如何持續為全球時尚社群打造獨有身份與風格的語彙。
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